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Blog – Page 9 – GT Food & Travel
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Category: Blog

  • FVG Wine Tasting at Vino Roma

    FVG Wine Tasting at Vino Roma

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    Vino Roma is a wine studio where you can learn about Italian wines through guided tastings. I’ve attended both “My Italians” and “Sparkling Saturdays“. Last week a special tasting, “Super Wines of Friuli” was on the calendar. With sommelier exams on my mind, I couldn’t wait to delve into this region with wine educator, colleague and friend Hande Leimer (pictured below).

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    Our first stop was the Colli Orientali del Friuli DOC appellation where many of Italy’s finest whites are found. In this hilly zone of Friuli Venezia Giulia (FVG) the soils are marl. Mountains protect vineyards from harsh northern cold while winds from the Adriatic Sea result in a more temperate climate.

    3 whites

    The flight included Sauvignon 2011 (100% Sauvignon Blanc) from La Tunella winery; Pinot Grigio 2010 (100% Pinot Grigio) by Livio Felluga and Vigne Cinquantanni 2008 (100% Friulano) produced by Le Vigne di Zamo.

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    First, Hande told us to note the color of the wine. Second, we talked about the aroma. Third, taste and fourth, food pairings. The Sauvignon was crisp with scents of orange blossom, green grass and citrus fruit. The Pinot Grigio was dry, bitter and persistent. The Friulano spoke of apricots, juniper and resin and tasted spicy.

    orange wines

    The 2nd group of wines from the Venezia Giulia IGT appellation were more natural, unfiltered and orange in color. Grape skins are left for a long period of time during maceration resulting in tannin extraction and a very intense color. Natural winemakers use minimal chemical and technological intervention in the vineyard and wine cellar.

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    Ice tea, peaches and caramel were the first impressions of Malvasia 2008 (100% Malvasia Istriana) by the Damijan winery. The deep amber Oslavje 2002 by Radikon had overtones of ripe fruit, honey and nuts; a blend of 40% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Grigio and 30% Sauvignon Blanc, it was complex, persistent and tannic.

    2 reds

    The third group was two reds. The first was Refosco 2008 (100% Refosco dal Peduncolo) from Ronchi di Cialla. It was fresh with balanced acidity and a blackberry and balsamic nose. The second was a surprise from the nearby Veneto region, Valpolicella Ripasso 2009 (Corvina, Convinone & Rondinella blend) from Antolini. The “ripasso” (repassed) technique produced a crisp and balanced ruby red wine with the fragrance of cherries, mint and vanilla.

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    Two dessert wines completed our trip to FVG and Veneto. Vola Vola 2007 (Picolit, Verduzzo, Sauvignon Blanc blend) from Le Vigne di Zamo had bitter almond and honey aromas. Recioto della Valpolicella Classico 2007 (Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella blend) by Antolini smelt of jam, cherry brandy and cinnamon.

    9 wines

    What an unique, fun and educational experience! We tasted 9 wines each with a distinct personality. I’m itching to try some of Hande’s suggested pairings like Vigne Cinquantanni 2008 with pumpkin ravioli, Radikon’s Oslavjie 2002 with risotto and Recioto della Valpolicella Classico with molten chocolate cake.

     
    Vino Roma
    Via In Selci 84/G*
    mail@vinoroma.com
  • Pizzeria Tonda

    Pizzeria Tonda

    What to say about Pizzeria Tonda? It is one of Rome’s best pizzerias. With warm service, bright decor and simply delicious brick oven pizza, it is still going strong. I ate there with a group of friends on Monday night.

    Starters included home-made crisps, suppli ortolano (Roman vegetarian fried rice ball stuffed with eggplant, zucchini, pepper and mozzarella) and eggplant trapizzino.

    Three pizzas that we had were the carbonara with egg, pecorino cheese and guanciale followed by the eggplant parmesan and the zucchini (onion, zucchini, tomato and mozzarella).

    You can read more about Tonda’s opening at Parla Food.

    Pizzeria Tonda
    Via Valle Corteno 31, Montesacro
    +39068180960
  • Panificio Bonci is open – pizza bianca, bread & biscotti…

    Panificio Bonci is open – pizza bianca, bread & biscotti…

    Panificio Bonci is open! The latest addition to the Gabriele Bonci dynasty opened its doors this week. Last night I attended the launch party where Bonci served up savory and sweet treats.

    Trays of pastry puff pizzette with tomato sauce and absolutely addictive pizza bianca were served. What makes the crust perfectly crisp? skill, love, 2 day dough leavening and quality ingredients (Mulino Marino flour, extra virgin olive oil, water, salt and natural yeast). I’ll queue for this anytime.

     

    Cornetto made with french butter hot out of the oven were sweet, doughy and dense not to be compared to a light, flaky, buttery croissant.


    And there were cookies, panettone and bread that was sublime. Bonci may be one of the pizza kings of Rome but his bread is AMAZING! If you love pumpkin bread be sure to grab a loaf to go.

    Congratulations on the new venture!

    Panificio Bonci
    via Trionfale 34/36 
    tel. 06 39734457
    Open Mon-Sat 7:30 – 22:00, Sun 9:30 – 15:00
  • romeo | chef & baker

    romeo | chef & baker

    I am a huge fan of Glass Hostaria, Salumeria Roscioli and Il Forno Roscioli. When I heard that they were combining forces to create a new venture, I couldn’t wait to experience it. Cristina Bowerman, Fabio Spada and the Roscioli brothers, Pierluigi and Alessandro are the chefs & bakers behind Romeo.

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    Pulling on their collective strengths, Romeo offers thin crust Roman pizza, cheese, cured meats and a complete menu. Since it’s opening last week, I’ve visited for lunch and dinner. Here is what I’ve sampled so far.

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    Pizza bianca (pizza topped with olive oil and salt) and slivers of dried fig and raisin whole wheat bread.

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    Marinated beef, roasted red peppers, anchovies, caciocavallo podolico and wild fennel sandwich.

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    Marinated beef, polenta and puntarelle.

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    Castelmagno ravioli with pumpkin foam and hazelnuts.

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    Beef cheek with potato puree and chestnut cream.

    Skate alla saltimbocca with capers and celery mousse.

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    Chocolate fondant all’orzo and espresso sauce with wild berry crumble.

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    I enjoyed the texture-flavor combinations including sharp cheese, sweet fillet and smokey vegetables served on crusty bread  and velvety beef with crumbled polenta and slightly bitter chicory. The star dish was the ravioli bursting with creamy castelmagno topped with earthy pumpkin foam and crunchy hazelnuts. Not only did I savor the food but the service was fantastic, friendly and helpful. I look forward to visiting again very soon.

    Romeo | CHEF & BAKER
    Via Silla, 26/A
    00192 – Rome
    +39 06 32110120
    romeo.roma.it
  • Caldo freddo – Sicilian Ice Cream Sundae

    Caldo freddo – Sicilian Ice Cream Sundae

    It’s hot as #@! in Rome. All I can think about is my recent escape to San Vito Lo Capo, Sicily. Home to crystal clear water, white sandy beaches and stunning mountains, it is the birthplace of the caldo freddo (hot cold) dessert.

    Caldo freddo is an extravaganza of sponge cake soaked in liquor, gelato (italian ice cream) and whipped cream covered in hot dark chocolate sauce served in a terra cotta bowl. I ordered the classic version packed with gelato al caffè (coffee ice cream) but choose any gelato flavor you like. The velvety chocolate topping slowly melted through the layers of whipped cream and gelato to the rum soaked cake base. Sigh, I’d love to dig into one today, cool off with a swim and grab a seaside aperitif but that will have to wait until next summer.

    If you find yourself in San Vito Lo Capo grab an outdoor table, watch the sunset and devour a caldo freddo at Bar Gelateria Cavalluccio Marino, Via Faro, 17 (tel +39 0923.972220).

  • Happy Easter

    Happy Easter

    It’s been quite a long time since I’ve posted. I’ve been happily traveling and have much to report. Today, I want to wish a Happy Easter to my family, friends and all the amazing people in my life. I am grateful. Here’s my Easter post from last year which lies close to my heart. Buon appetito and Happy Easter!

    Easter in Naples

    Like all holidays in Italy, Pasqua (Easter) has many traditions both religious and culinary. After 40 days of fasting for Lent, Easter Sunday arrives with enough food to feed an army. Dishes include lamb or goat, savory Easter breads with a different twist from every region, la colomba and hollow chocolate eggs.

    I am lucky enough to spend today near Naples where my maternal grandparents were born. They brought many traditional recipes from Salerno and Avellino to Boston; specialities that my family recreates for each Easter celebration; specialities that I want to share with you from this amazing region.

    Tortano Napoletana – This savory bread is made with salami, provolone cheese and lard; melt in your mouth, cling to your arteries goodness…

    Pizza Rustica or Pizza Ripiena – This dish is filled with cheese and meat and resembles a pie. Ingredients include cheeses like ricotta, pecorino romano and mozzarella and meat such as salami, prosciutto and sausage.

    Cannelloni – This home made pasta is rolled and stuffed with ricotta cheese and ground meat and topped with tomato sauce. After all, it wouldn’t be an Italian meal without pasta.

    Capretto – Goat and potatoes roasted with garlic, olive oil and white wine. This succulent dish signals spring time!

    Pastiera Napoletana – This cake is made with ricotta cheese, orange blossom water, grain and candied citris peel.

     

  • An Afternoon with Arianna Occhipinti

    An Afternoon with Arianna Occhipinti

    I met inspirational, natural wine maker, Arianna Occhipinti for the first time at Sicilia en primeur 2011. Arianna and her wine are the new and the old Sicily, strong, surprising, rooted in tradition with an eye toward the future. They reflect the land of Vittoria and the region of Ragusa. Arianna’s energy is infectious, her love for the vines deep as is her belief in letting wine express itself at every turn.

    I was thrilled when she agreed to spend an afternoon with me at Azienda Agricola Arianna Occhipinti. She is passionate, extremely generous and down to earth. Below are the highlights from our interview. Enjoy!

    Why did you decide to dedicate your life to the vines? 

    It happened a bit by chance. My first exposure to the world of wine was attending wine events with my Uncle Giusto. My interest grew from there. At university, I realized my true passion was wine making and oenology, it suits my character, the part that craves contact with nature. I love the side of wine that speaks of a territory and its history, the history of one piece of land. Wine making nourishes this part of myself.

    When did you start to make wine and what was your initial goal?

    I was 21. Selling wine was not essential to me at the beginning. I wanted to capture the essence of Vittoria through wine. I believed in Frappato and Nero d’Avola from Vittoria. Respecting the plants was essential for me so I used organic and biodynamic agricultural methods. I wanted to allow complete expression of the grape and wine without chemical intervention. For this reason, in 2004, I started with one hectare around my house, half Frappato, half Nero d’Avola – 2,000 bottles of each. 

    Describe how your wines express your character.

    Wines are without doubt an expression of the character of the wine maker. If two different people make wine from the same vineyards, they will do it in a different manner expressing their individuality, their interpretation. My wines are an expression of a this territory and my point of view. Fundamentally, Vittoria is a place where wines have always been somewhat diverse, fresh, elegant  and less alcoholic than other comparable wines. I hope my wine gives a sensation of tasting Vittoria, in particular “il Fossa di Lupo”, my farm, of the freshness of this land.

    You feel strongly about not using substances to alter wine. Can you talk a bit about this?

    I feel very strongly about appreciating what a grape gives naturally. I shouldn’t manipulate it using fertilizers. That would mean changing the characteristics to be something different than that of the land. If one year a vineyard gives me certain characteristics it’s meant to be and I respect it.  It shouldn’t be altered by the hands of men. It’s the same in the cellars. If one vintage has more acidity, I don’t change it, I don’t add tannins, this doesn’t interest me. 2008 was warmer than 2009 so the 2009 Frappato and Nero d’Avola express more freshness and minerality in comparison. I value the biodiversity of the vineyard. It’s exactly this that excites me and interests me. Each year expresses the traits of that year, each year is unique.  

    Do you have a favorite?

    No, people say that my favorite is Frappato because my eyes light up when it’s mentioned. It may be because Frappato is not as well known as Nero d’Avola. I admire it, it’s the grape that made me fall in love with this work. It was the idea of the grape itself. I saw it like many other important grapes, like Pinot Noir or Nebbiolo. I believe that there is always one thing that attracts a person to this craft and for me it was the frappato grape.

    What are your future plans for Occhipinti?

    An immediate goal is to build a new wine cellar. As for longer term, I want to keep doing what I’m doing, I’d like to see Occhipinti become even more rooted in this territory. Improvements come with time and experience, with analysis, with knowing a place. When I started I was lucky to make good wine right away but my knowledge of Vittoria wasn’t what it is today and in 10 years it will be different that it is today.

    Beyond Occhipinti, I care about Vittoria. One day I’d love to overhear someone tasting wine say this is a Frappato or a Nero d’Avola from Vittoria. It’s my greatest desire that wine drinkers identify this territory through its wine.

    Occhipinti has grown tremendously since 2004. Will you put a ceiling on this growth?

    If it’s possible to grow while maintaining the same characteristics, great, otherwise, I’ve got to say that I’m already happy with things as they stand. At this moment, I’m making approximately 75,000 bottles and probably won’t surpass 100,000 bottles.

    What do you find most rewarding about being a winemaker?

    I believe the most rewarding thing is to leave a mark on history through your vineyards, to become a significant part of history. In my case, Occhipinti is still very young but with constancy, work, time, with the fact that you’re here, the fact that often you don’t give up, you leave your mark. A business continues with the passing of time.

    Lastly, how often are tours and wine tastings scheduled at Occhipinti?

    At this point by request only in English and Italian. I’m happy to say that people come from all over the world to visit Vittoria and often to visit Occhipinti. It brings me great joy to meet wine lovers and give them a tour of the vineyards and wine cellars. I love tasting and discussing my wines with others.

    Azienda Agricola Arianna Occhipinti
    SP68 Vittoria-Pedalino Km 5,4
    info@agricolaocchipinti.it
     Tel. +39.333 6360316

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