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Blog – Page 11 – GT Food & Travel
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Category: Blog

  • Simply Satisfying Biscotti

    Simply Satisfying Biscotti

    When winter strikes, I find myself spending more time baking. A few years ago my Mom gave me a leather bound book with my grandmother Louise’s signature recipes. She hand-wrote each one. It is the most thoughtful gift I’ve ever received. I keep adding more of my grandmother’s recipes to it, testing them and retesting them.

    I recently made a version of her anise biscotti.  In Italy, the term biscotti refers to a twice-baked cookie.  I adapted the recipe using butter instead of margarine and orange essence instead of anise oil.

    Ingredients
    1 cup sugar
    1/2 cup butter
    3 eggs
    3 cups flour
    3 tsp baking powder
    1/2 tsp orange essence
     

    Combine sugar and butter.  Add eggs well-beaten, flour, baking powder and essence.  Mix together and form 3 strips approximately 6 inches wide and 10 inches long.  Bake at 400 degrees for about 15 minutes.  Remove from oven, slice and place under broiler to brown both sides.  

    They are tasty hot out of the oven or dunk them in coffee for breakfast or a snack!

  • Mauro Musso’s Magical Pasta

    Mauro Musso’s Magical Pasta

    Thanks to a 7-course pasta tasting organized by Katie Parla and hosted by Beppe e I Suoi Formaggi, I had the chance to meet Mauro Musso and taste his magical pasta. Mauro’s passion for his craft and his quest for rare flours are inspiring. Two weeks later and I’m still craving the one dish that went against the grain of the tajarin themed extravaganza; casarecce di segale bianca (rolled white rye) pasta served with three fragrant cheeses (goat, cow and sheep) and toasted walnuts.

    I asked Mauro for his advice on the best was to recreate this dish. He recommends serving the pasta warm with aged cheeses (preferably made from sheep’s & cow’s milk) cut into cubes. They should be piquant but not spicy nor strong like blue cheese. Add a few mushrooms preserved in oil and a trio of chopped walnuts, pine nuts and almonds. Take care to add small amounts of cheese, mushrooms and nuts to enjoy the flavor of the rye itself.  Slightly warm all ingredients before tossing them with the casarecce so that they do not affect the temperature of the pasta.  I know what I’ll be cooking on Sunday!

    For more information on Mauro and his pasta visit the Casa dei Tajarin di Mauro Musso website. In Rome, his pasta is for sale at Beppe’s and at Pizzarium.  For more about November’s pasta tasting festivities see posts at Parla Food and Aglio, Olio e Peperoncino.

     

     

     

     

     

     

  • Coffee Addict in Naples – Take 2

    Coffee Addict in Naples – Take 2

    I was in Naples last week, eating, drinking and eating some more. In the countless times that I’ve visited Naples over the past 20 years, I’ve avoided Caffè Gambrinus.  Gold accents, chandeliers, bow-tied baristas (barmen).  It’s all a bit too fancy for me.This trip I reluctantly gave it a try.  I ordered a caffè strapazzato, it’s THE COFFEE to drink here. When I asked a Neapolitan friend to describe it he replied “caffè’ (fatto bello cremoso) crema di caffè’ (che si ottiene shakerando caffè’ e zucchero) e una spolverata di cacao amaro.”  I love the way Italians describe coffee.  The literal translation is espresso (made beautifully creamy), coffee cream (that one makes by shaking espresso and sugar) and a dusting of dark cocoa powder.  It lived up to its description.  The espresso was smooth and the coffee cream and bittersweet freckles clung to the porcelain cup; sweet, rich and velvety.

    It is a must try for the coffee obsessed but in the end, I’m a Vero Bar del Professore  girl.

    Caffè Gambrinus
    Via Chiaia 1
    Piazza Trieste e Trento
    tel. 081 417582

  • “Diamantini di Cioccolato, Riso e Caffè” Biscotti

    “Diamantini di Cioccolato, Riso e Caffè” Biscotti

    I received Luca Montersino’s Le Dolci Tentazioni (sweet temptations) cookbook for my birthday in July. Until recently, it sat on my bookshelf collecting dust. Montersino is known for his “healthy” pastry recipes. Many of them are gluten free, substitute olive oil for butter and use grains like kamut and quinoa instead of more processed grains. I decided to make his diamantini di cioccolato, riso e caffè gluten free biscotti. The photo was appealing, the recipe easy and chocolate and coffee are two of my vices.

    Diamantini di Cioccolato, Riso e Caffè (Small diamonds of Chocolate, Rice & Coffee)

    Ingredients

    450 gr (2 cups) butter
    250 gr (2 1/4 cups) powdered sugar
    40 gr (1.5 oz) egg yolks
    25 g (approx 1 oz) eggs
    500 gr (2 1/2 cups) rice flour
    60 gr (1/2 cup) cocoa powder
    150 gr (2/3 cup) sugar
    5 gr (1 tsp) instant espresso 
     

    Combine butter, powdered sugar, egg yolks, eggs, rice flour and cocoa powder in the order in which they are listed. Work the dough until it is firm. Divide into 200 gr (7 oz) portions. Shape into circular loaves of approximately 40 cm (15 inches) in length. Mix the sugar and instant espresso together and place on a non-stick surface. Roll each loaf in the sugar/instant espresso mixture and cut into 3 cm (approx 1 inch) pieces. Place on baking sheet. Bake at 180 C (350 F) for 15 minutes. This recipe yields 140 biscotti.

    I was a bit worried when I mixed the ingredients together, rolled out the dough and it looked a little less than appetizing!

     Once the dough was coated in sugar and espresso and cut it started to look edible, whew…

    15 minutes later and out came a tray of sparkling gems.

    The cookies were melt in your mouth-crumbly and packed a chocolate punch.  Serve them warm or at room temperature.  The next time I make them, I’ll try reducing the quantity of butter.

    Luca Montersino’s desserts are available at Eataly in NYC and at Golosi di Salute pastry shops in Italy.  Unfortunately, his blog “Peccati di Gola“ is only published in Italian at this time.  

  • Hostaria da Settimio – My Neighborhood Trattoria

    Hostaria da Settimio – My Neighborhood Trattoria

    Last weekend, I had lunch at one of my go-to-spots, Hostaria da Settimio in Monteverde. I stumbled upon it in November 2009.  Honest prices, homey food and a welcoming owner make for a winning recipe.  Carla, the mayor of Settimio, bops from table to table reciting the menu, taking orders and chatting with the regulars. Extremely knowledgeable and passionate about cucina romana, she enjoys discussing traditional Roman food. In fact we were waxing poetic about animelle, rigatoni con la pajata and coda alla vaccinara, three of our mutually loved dishes.

    We snuck in without a reservation.  By 1:30 the dining room was packed. Starters include carciofi alla giudia (deep friend artichoke), suppli and salumi from Norcia. First courses include Roman pastas like cacio e pepe (pasta with grated pecorino romano cheese and black pepper), amatriciana and gricia (tomato-less amatriciana).

    We ordered cacio e pepe. There is something magical about this seemingly simple dish. When done well it is velvety, peppery and deliciously sharp.  Next, pappardelle al cinghiale (fresh pasta with a tomato-wild boar sauce); originally from Tuscany, it is the odd man out on the Roman pasta menu. The sweet, nutty and intense flavor reminds me of autumn; a comforting and hearty dish.

    Second courses include polpette (meatballs), abbacchio (lamb) and saltimbocca alla Romana.

    Side dishes include cicoria ripassata (chicory sauteed with olive oil, garlic and spicy red pepper), spinach and grilled seasonal vegetables. When in season, I order a salad of puntarelle (a type of chicory) as a side dish. The bitter green stalks are tossed in a dressing of anchovies, lemon juice, olive oil and garlic. If you love anchovies like me, you’ll want to mop up every last fishy drop with a hunk of bread.

    Desserts include tiramisu, crostata (a tart usually filled with jam) and fresh fruit.

    Visit Settimio for Roman pasta specialties, a lively atmosphere and honest prices. Average cost per person including a starter, pasta or main dish, a bottle of water and wine is 20 – 25 euro.

     Hostaria da Settimio
    Via di val Tellina, 29
    06.58230701
    Open Tuesday – Sunday  for lunch & dinner

     

     

  • Lemon Daal, Un-Italian Comfort Food

    Lemon Daal, Un-Italian Comfort Food

    Shopping at food markets around Rome is always inspirational to me. I love to cook and when I feel like making something un-Italian, I head over to the market at Piazza Vittorio. It offers local and seasonal fruit and vegetables as well as international ingredients.

    After a quick chat with my go-to-spice vendor, I decided to create a lemon daal recipe. Moong daal are popular in Indian cooking, the ultimate spicy comfort food. I like to serve it over basmati rice with yogurt.

    All measurements are approximate. I adjust them to taste.

    Ingredients:

    500 grams yellow daal lentils (rinsed well & soaked for 1-2 hours)
    Juice from 1 lemon
    1 large onion, finely diced
    2 Cinnamon sticks
    4-5 Cardamom pods
    1-2 tsp Cumin seeds
    1-2 tsp Coriander seeds
    1-2 tsp Cloves
    Fresh ginger to taste, grated
    Green chili peppers to taste, chopped
    Tumeric, 1 pinch
    1-2 Bay leaves crushed
    Vegetable or seed oil
    Salt to taste

     

    Heat oil in a pan. Sauté onion, cinnamon sticks, cumin and coriander seeds, cloves and bay leaves together over low heat, taking care not to burn the spices. Stir occasionally until the ingredients turn a few shades darker. Add cardamom pods & cook for approximately 2 minutes.

    Add daal and enough water to cover it.  Don’t worry about adding too much water. You’ll probably need to add more later on. Bring to a simmer.  Add chili pepper, ginger, lemon juice, a pinch of tumeric powder & salt to taste. I sometimes add halved lemons, letting them cook with the daal. Cook for approximately 1 – 1.5 hours depending on desired consistency. Serve warm over rice.

    Be sure to make extra – it tastes even better the next day!

     

  • Glass Hostaria – Where Rome Meets NYC

    Glass Hostaria – Where Rome Meets NYC

    Last week, I clicked my heels together walking down a Trastevere street.  My mind, eyes and stomach were delightfully confused. I had just finished a 5 hour fine dining experience at Glass Hostaria.

    Located in the heart of Trastevere, Glass boasts the highly creative cuisine of Chef Cristina Bowerman, modern décor, professional service and an extensive wine list. Our table chose the 90 euro tasting menu. Dishes included ravioli filled with liquid 60-month aged parmesan topped with white truffle shavings and duck breast with pumpkin and glazed banana in a red wine sauce.  

    Each course was well executed and beautifully presented. Red shrimp covered with dehydrated prosciutto from Parma in a lettuce and oyster coulis served with a scoop of Barlotti ricotta di bufala was a powerful flavor combination. The savory bacon-like morsels, succulent shrimp and luscious cheese melted on the tongue. Sea bass, edamame, algae and lotus root salad crowned with apple granita was crisp and clean.

    Three pasta themed dishes followed. Pastificio dei Campi linguine cooked in roasted red pepper water looked like a miniature beehive garnished with cilantro. It was sweet and smokey. Floating in a tuber broth, button pasta stuffed with pine nuts and herbs was fresh and delicate. The favorite in the pasta category was the 60-month aged parmesan ravioli with white truffle shavings; piquant, earthy and aromatic.

    Duck breast with pumpkin and glazed banana in a red wine sauce was served next. The meat was nicely cooked and tender. The main dessert was a yogurt semifreddo with verbena oil. Adorned with flowers and sprouts it was an unexpected delight.

    Be sure to leave room for the gorgeous petits mignardises.

    A 65 euro and 90 euro tasting menu are available or you can order à la carte. We agreed that the tasting menu was one of the best and most unique meals that we have enjoyed in Rome. I can’t wait to return and sample more of Bowerman’s unique dishes…I’ve got glazed eel on my mind.

    Glass Hostaria 
    Vicolo del Cinque, 58 – Rome
    tel: 06-58335903
    Open: Tuesday – Sunday; 8:00pm – 11:30pm

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