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Easter is right around the corner. Bakers and bread makers are churning out colombe, casatiello (easter bread made with pieces of salame, pecorino cheese and eggs) and la pastiera napoletana. Artisans work round-the-clock cranking out chocolate creations.
Like all food, Italians take chocolate seriously, especially at Pasqua (Easter). Mini eggs, fish and chicken-shaped goodies wrapped in pink, silver and gold foil flood shop windows. Classic hollow chocolate eggs come in every size and contain surprise toys. Many Italians bring specially selected gifts to their choice chocolate maker to be encased in massive chocolate eggs.
I can’t help but be mesmerized. Enjoy!
If you find yourself in Rome around Easter, here’s are are two places where you can get the good stuff:
You know it’s Easter time when you walk by Rome’s oldest and finest chocolatier. There is a line out the door. All chocolate and Easter confections are crafted on-site. Order your custom chocolate Easter eggs here.
This antique chocolate factory was founded in 1923 in the university area of San Lorenzo. Whether you grab a seat in the café to sample some Easter treats or take a carton of hollow chocolate eggs to go, you won’t be disappointed. The eggs coated in hazelnut and ground cocoa bits are delightful.
Last Thursday, I had dinner at Le Tre Zucche in Monteverde. Open for nearly six years, it is hands-down one of my favorite restaurants in Rome. The professional and warm service, simple and elegant décor, extensive wine list and creative regional plates can be credited to the talented duo; Fabrizio Sepe, chef and co-owner, and Federico Chessa, co-owner. Their passion can be tasted in every bite.
By 9:00pm the dining room was full. I’ve eaten here a number of times and it was time to try the tasting menu. I chose an Allegrini Valpolicella Classico 2010 to enjoy alongside dinner. Dishes included grilled polenta topped with endive, stracciata and anchovy fillets; mortadella cannolo filled with ricotta served over asparagus salad; chickpea soup with chicory and pecorino cheese meatballs; chiatarrucci pasta with meat ragù in a red wine reduction; braised beef cheek with red onions in agrodolce (sweet and sour sauce) and roman broccoli; sea salt and Amedei gianduia chocolate cake.
Every plate was well executed. The buttery stracciata, anchovy fillets, bitter endive and crisp grilled polenta were an incredible texture and flavor explosion. The mortadella cannolo packed with a creamy ricotta filling and splash of robust balsamic vinegar was divine. The handmade egg pasta with meat sauce was rich and savory. The beef cheek was perfectly cooked, succulent and tender. The pre-dessert of phyllo pastry piped full of crema di noci (hazelnut cream) topped with glazed pear trumped the main chocolate dessert.
The tasting menu (minimum of two people), ½ bottle of water, and artisan bread basket costs 35 euro per person excluding service – well worth every euro!
Being coffee obsessed, there is no better city to visit in Italy than Naples…the home of pizza margherita, mouthwatering sfogliatelle and coffee extraordinaire…need I go on? Last weekend, it was time to say hello to spring and adieu to winter and il caffè alla nocciola in cialda (espresso topped with hazelnut cream served in a tiny wafer cup) at my favorite Neapolitan coffee bar, Il Vero Bar del Professore. Sadly the chocolate wafer lining melts when temperatures rise making it difficult to store them in summer.
The dark scrumptious layer disintegrates the minute the nutty coffee combo meets the edible shell so time is of the essence. Stand at the bar, slurp back the luscious creamy concoction and crunch on the crisp wafer. The good news is the caffè alla nocciola is available year round served in glass minus the chocolate. If sweet coffee drinks aren’t your thing, order a caffè napoletano (espresso) or cappuccino, which are equally yummy.
I’ve been visiting this famous institution for years and I’m never disappointed. Most days you’ll find Raffaele Ferrieri, the founder’s son and current owner, at the bar happy to recount the history of his bar and talk about his coffee creations. Neapolitans stand at the counter watching brilliant baristas whip up the legendary crema di nocciola (hazelnut cream) that coats the inside of each glass. Although there are a few street side tables, the emphasis isn’t on lingering, but rather on taste.
Open since 1977, near Piazza del Plebiscito, they follow an artisan method of coffee production. They are one of the few coffee bars in Naples that roast coffee beans a legna (wood roasting). Most roasting machines are gas fired. When roasting is done well it is an art. Without it none of the flavor and aroma would grace your cup. Their blend is 100% arabica – smooth, velvety, divine.
Although I’m already missing il Professore’s caffè alla nocciola in cialda, I’m looking forward to summer and my first caffè shakerato of 2011. Caffè shakerato is made by mixing espresso, sugar and a lot of ice; shake vigorously until a froth appears when poured. There’s nothing like a caffeine-ice pick me up on a steamy July day!
I spent four days at the Sicilia en Primeur 2011, tasting Sicilian wine and meeting wine producers. It was an intense, informative and fun event. I visited the Terre Sciane and Pantelleria group of wine producers for two days before arriving at the Donnafugata Resort near Ragusa where we tasted wines for two days. There was the option to taste each wine with the producers. This was fantastic for me because I believe to truly know a wine you must know the personalities of the producers and how they work. There was also the opportunity to taste wines with an AIS sommelier instead of the wine maker.
I opted for tasting at the producers’ tables where I had the chance to hear each cantina’s story straight from the producers. By the end of the event, I tasted more than 100 wines. The diversity of the territory and the wine makers personalities shine through each glass. I walked away with a growing admiration and love of Sicily, its wines and the pioneers who are transforming the landscape of Sicilian wines.
Arianna Occhipinti is the 20-something year old behind these extraordinary wines and vineyard. An artisan producer, her wines are moving. Arianna’s love for the land and hands-on approach to winemaking are captivating. The small vineyard is located in Vittoria in the region of Ragusa. Il Frappato, IGT 2008, is ruby red in color with scents and flavors of red berries and green tea. Fresh and delicate, this wine left me wanting to taste and re-taste it time and time again.
Il Frappato 2008 – Arianna Occhipinti
Centopassi – Catarratto Terre Rosse di Giabbascio 2010
Centopassi wines
Centopassi is the winemaking division started in 2002 by two social cooperatives of Libera Terra on 60 hectares of land confiscated from the “Cosa Nostra” around the outskirts of Palermo and Corleone. This new generation of inspirational wine producers are finding ways to give back to both the land and people of Sicily by producing high quality organic wine. All of their wines are interesting. The Catarratto, IGT 2010, comes from the Giabbascio vineyard situated near Palermo at 400 meters above sea level. It is smooth and fresh with floral and tropical fruit notes – a must try!
Graci focuses on the traditional varieties of nerello mascalese, nerello cappuccio, carricante and catarratto indigenous to Mount Etna. The wines reflect the terroir, bold and beautiful. The Quota 600 Rosso, Etna Rosso DOC is elegant and balanced with an intense nose and flavor of dark red fruits.
Giusto Occhipinti and Titta Cilia have been making wine together since 1980. The duo can be credited with putting cerasuola di vittoria back on the map. Renowned for aging wines in terra-cotta amphorae, this DOCG nero d’avola-frappato blend is evocative, earthy and full bodied.
Donnafugata is one of the family run vineyards that painted the story of Sicilan wine and Josè Rallo is the face and voice of the cantina; her passion, radiance and determination are reflected in the array of Donnafugata wines. The Ben Ryé 2008, DOC Passito from Pantelleria has a stand up personality and richness. Amber in color with strong scents of apricot, peaches and honey, this dessert wine pairs well with aged cheese and cannoli.
It probably comes as a surprise that I love food. Everytime I visit NYC I feel like I’m cheating on my faithful boyfriend, Italian cuisine. My restaurant wish list is made before I hit the ground and it rarely includes Cucina Italiana. I hit my regulars…Momofuku noodle bar for my pork bun fix, Sobaya for unrivaled seaweed salad and fresh noodles and Nha Trang for shrimp in little pepper and salt. And then I need to venture out to some new spots. The chosen one of this trip was Riverpark.
Riverpark is located on a garden plaza in Kips Bay overlooking the East River. The space has floor-to-ceiling windows dripping with burnished bronze, weathered oak and brushed limestone. The interior feels immense but intimate at the same time.
Sweet Potato Ravioli with blood oranges, hazelnuts and tarragon
The well-balanced menu created by Sisha Ortúzar is modern american with an international flair reflected in each chapter from “raw bar” to “second course”. The standout dishes from the first course are mackerel escabeche, squab mole and sweet potato ravioli. The alluring fish starter is laid over a crisp paella pancake chock full of seafood and topped with strips of intense Iberico Pata Negra ham. The nutty rendition of squab mole over grits melts in your mouth leaving you wanting more. Don’t miss the handmade ravioli; the combination of blood oranges, hazelnuts and tarragon is bright and luscious, the consistency rich and indulgent.
Day boat scallops, with hen of the woods mushroom, pears, kale chutney and butternut squash
The array of second courses is vast. The day boat scallops, with hen of the woods mushrooms, pears, kale chutney and butternut squash is exceptional. The sweetness of the squash and pears dancing with the earthy nightshades and greens is impeccable. The Berkshire pork chop accompanied by brussel sprouts, apple hash, and parsnip puree is hearty and delicious. The entrée that hits home is roasted beef sirloin, served over heirloom beans alongside crispy brisket topped with smokey red and green peppers, evoking a bowl of deconstructed chili.
Beef sirloin with heirloom beans and crispy brisket
Save room for dessert, cinnamon panna cotta layered over pumpkin spice cake with pumpkin seed brittle and rosemary ice cream is velvety, delicate and sublime.
Cinnamon panna cotta, pumpkin spice cake and rosemary ice cream
I can’t wait to see what dishes Ortúzar cooks up this summer when I can grab a table outside overlooking the East River, kick back and enjoy…
I am a coffee addict. Truth be told, I can’t function without my morning espresso or caffè as it’s called in Italian. It’s one of my vices. Since moving to Rome, 3 years ago, I’m forever on the lookout for that perfect cappuccino and caffè with a distinct crema, that caramel-colored layer of goodness that coats the side of the cup like syrup. Here are a few I’ve found that satisfy my coffee craving…
Castroni – An international specialty food shop and coffee maker, the Castroni family has a well honed recipe for success. With eight shops and counting, the Via Nazionale location in Rione Monti is fabulous. The espresso is sublime, true Italian style, full bodied and well-balanced. Cappuccinos and caffè lattes are skillfully poured. A great place to knock back a coffee, grab a quick lunch and buy gourmet gifts.
Paranà Caffè – An oasis from the chaos surrounding Termini, Rome’s central train station, Paranà Caffè is packed with people. Talented baristas churn out endless cappuccinos adorned with decadent latte art. The leaf and heart shaped etchings seem too gorgeous to ruin. Rest assured it tastes as good as it looks. It is a great place to savor a cappuccino and watch the world go by.
Sant’Eustachio Il Caffè – Top quality coffee, tradition and the frenetic atmosphere are just a few of the reasons that a dedicated local clientele and tourists keep flocking to this local. Sant’Eustachio’s legendary blend of one-hundred percent arabica beans is full-bodied and unique thanks to a traditional artisan approach and on premise small batch wood roasting. Regulars order the renowned “Gran Caffè”, a larger version of a standard espresso with a mysteriously dense and well executed crema. If you don’t take sugar be sure to order senza zucchero as the coffee is presweetened.
Sciascia Caffè – At first glance, it appears to be an old style Italian pharmacy frozen in time. Open since 1919, Sciascia Caffè is located off the beaten path in the affluent zone of Prati. Rigorous bean selection and unwavering devotion result in optimal coffee. Try the specialty, un caffè con cioccolato – espresso with chocolate – and you’ll quickly understand why coffee fanatics are addicted to Sciascia.
Tazza D’Oro – A stones throw away from the Pantheon, Tazza D’Oro, is one of the few on premise artisan roasters left in the historical center. The famous “La Regina del Caffè” blend served at the bar is an exquisitely balanced blend of one-hundred percent arabica beans. Standing at the bar, Romans and tourists alike indulge in a morning cappuccino adorned with a paradisiacal snow white froth and cherish an afternoon espresso.
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Being coffee obsessed, there is no better city to visit in Italy than Naples…the home of pizza margherita, mouthwatering sfogliatelle
Open since 1977, near 
Although I’m already missing il Professore’s caffè alla nocciola in cialda
