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Blog – GT Food & Travel
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Category: Blog

  • Torta di Mele – Apple Cake

    Torta di Mele – Apple Cake

    Who doesn’t like apple pie? Sweet and spicy scented clouds of crisp slices sprinkled with sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg and lemon juice bubble through a golden lattice crust. The smells that drifted out of Ma and Papa’s kitchen window linger in my mind. I’ve talked about Ma (my grandmother Louise) many times on this blog. I’d open her driveway gate and run past the apple, peach and pear trees to their back door to find her waiting, smiling. She was dressed in one of her many flowery housecoats with pearl tinted snaps. In her kitchen, there was always  homemade dessert.
    In Italy, I still make her apple pie but when I’m pressed for time, I turn to her apple cake recipe. It’s easy to make and not overly sweet. Enjoy it for breakfast, an afternoon snack or dessert served warm out of the oven or at room temperature.

    Ingredients

    • 6 tablespoons butter, softened plus extra for greasing the cake pan
    • 3 eggs
    • 3/4 cup sugar
    • 2 ¾ cups of self-rising flour plus extra for dusting
    • 6 small crisp apples, peeled, cored and chopped – I use mele annurche, honey crisp or cortland apples. 

    Preheat the oven to 350° F. Grease a cake pan with butter and dust it lightly with flour. Mix the eggs and sugar together until fluffy. Add the butter to the mixture and mix until combined completely. Sift the flour into the mixture. Add the apples and mix. Pour the cake mixture into the buttered and floured cake pan. Bake for 30 to 40 minutes. Remove from the oven and let it cool or serve while warm. Serve with whipped cream or ice cream, if you like.

     

  • Buccellati Sicilian Christmas Fig Cookies

    Buccellati Sicilian Christmas Fig Cookies

    In December, holiday breads and desserts flood bakery shelves. Panettone may be the most popular Italian pastry served during the holiday season but I prefer homemade Christmas cookies especially nutty roccocò, chocolate covered mostaccioli and buccellati (Sicilian fig-filled cookies). Baked in a wreath ring or as cookies, the combination of figs, dates, nuts, raisins and sometimes candied fruits is simply delicious.

    buccellati

    In the past, baked goods packed with dried fruits popped up around harvest time as cooler temperatures approached. Filled with figs, buccellati represented a successful and prosperous harvest. Traditionally buccellati appeared at family celebrations including weddings and christenings. Today, despite pastry chefs making it year round, buccellati are linked to Christmas festivities.

    I cherish and miss listening to Christmas tunes while baking and eating cookies with mom in the days leading up to December 25. She will be baking away in Boston and I’ll do the same in Rome. There is no single recipe for these Christmas delights. Some recipes use dessert wine. All recipes use nuts, mostly almonds. Mom uses her plum jam.

    Ingredients (5 dozen cookies)

    Ingredients for the dough

    • 4 cups flour
    • 1/2 cup sugar
    • 1/2 cup
    • 1 stick and 1 ounce of butter
    • 2 large eggs
    • 1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
    • 1 tablespoon baking powder (in Sicily bakers’ ammonia or hartshorn is often used. If you find it, it will leave the cookies more crisp).

    Ingredients for the filling

    • 1/2 cup home made or high quality jam (we use black plum jam but choose your favorite, strawberry and cherry work well too)
    • 6 ounces dried figs
    • 3/4 cup of vino cotto
    • 2 tablespoons pistachios
    • 2 tablespoons almonds
    • 1/2 cup walnuts

    Ingredients for the icing

    • 1 cup powdered sugar
    • juice of 1 to 2 lemons
    • pistacchio granules for decorating

    The filling

    Finely chop the dried figs. Put the figs in a saucepan. Chop the nuts by hand or with a food processor.figs2 Add the jam, vino cotto and nuts (pistachios, almonds, walnuts). Stir frequently over low heat until the mixture thickens, about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat. Let the mixture cool to room temperature.plum_jamPreheat the oven to 350° F before making the dough.

     The dough

    Pile the flour in a mound on a marble or wooden surface. Make a well in the center of the mound. Add the sugar, butter, eggs, vanilla and baking powder or ammonium bicarbonate if you’re using it to the well. Mix with your hands incorporating the flour into the well little by little, until the dough forms. If the dough is too dry add a tablespoon of milk moisten it. The dough should be easy to work with and not too sticky.buccellati_doughDivide the dough into quarters. Roll one quarter of the dough into a rectangle. The dough should be about 1/4 inch thick. Use a spoon to spread the filling along the bottom third of the dough. buccellati_fillingFold the bottom over the filling. Fold the top over, enclosing the filling within the dough. It will look like a log. Turn the log over (seam-side down) and press gently to flatten it. Cut into 2-3 inch pieces. Gently shape each cookie into a moon shape. buccellati_bakingMake 3 slits on the rounded side of each buccellato. Place the cookies on a unlined baking sheet. Repeat until dough and filling are finished.

    Bake at 350°F for approximately 25 minutes, until golden brown. Place cookies on a rack to cool.

    The icing

    Place pistachios in a food processor and pulse or chop by hand. pistacchio

    In a small bowl, combine the powdered sugar with the juice from 1 – 2 lemons. Mix until smooth. When the cookies are cool, brush with the icing and sprinkle with pistachio granules. I ice one-half of the cookies and leave the others unfrosted. Mix it up. buccellati1

    Happy Holidays!

  • Maritozzo – Breakfast in Siracusa

    Maritozzo – Breakfast in Siracusa

    maritozzo_caffeMy love for Sicily and city of Siracusa hasn’t waned. Visiting her is like slipping on my well-worn leather trench coat. Crunchy sea air, dark coffee fumes, baking buttery maritozzo and memories wash over me. Siracusa_DuomoI walk through the Ortigia market talking to the fish vendors and Grandpa Sebastiano comes to mind. He was a fisherman from Augusta, Sicily and then from Boston when they immigrated. Grandma Maria was the cook. She made simple and fresh dishes. The memories, sheer beauty, history, delicious dishes and joyful feelings keep me coming back to Siracusa as does Bar del Ponte Cristina.siracusa_outdoor-tablesAt Bar del Ponte Cristina, the baristas pull luscious, aromatic cappuccinos, caffès and caffè lattes. Trays of freshly baked cornetti, simple and chocolate filled brioche, bombe fritte (donuts), and sfgolie alla ricotta (fried pockets filled with ricotta cheese) fill the glass shelves. The maritozzo con uvetta is my favorite. The boat shaped pastry is made with sweet brioche dough speckled with raisins and lightly topped with sugar crystals. maritozzoMaritozzo originated in Roman where raisin, pine nut and candied fruit studded maritozzi quaresimali were served during the Lent. In Rome today, plain maritozzo sliced open and filled with whipped sweetened cream are more common. I prefer the Sicilian version served alongside a cappuccino while sitting at an outdoor table looking at the Temple of Apollo and listening to Sicilian chatter. Buon colazione!

    Bar del Ponte Cristina
    Piazza Pancali 22
    Siracusa, Sicily

     

  • Top 10 places to eat and drink in Palermo, Sicily

    Top 10 places to eat and drink in Palermo, Sicily

    PalermoA friend asked me today, why Sicily? The first answer is because my paternal grandparents were born in Augusta, Sicily. They lived there for more 35 years. I was connected to Sicily well before I ever stepped foot on her beautiful soil. My maternal grandparents are from the region of Campania which meant I grew up with a mishmash of Sicilian and Neapolitan culinary traditions, stories and superstitions. Dad_G_2004

    I first visited Sicily with Mom and Dad in 2004. We visited Palermo, Siracusa, Agrigento and Augusta. We ate and drank our way around the island. Dad is ready to eat with me at any time of the day. We hit the food markets in Palermo at 8:00 am. Our first stop was at a stand in the middle of the Vucciria market. There was one large battered silver pot filled with slowly boiling water and crates of polipo (octopus). We ordered two plates. The vendor squeezed lemon juice over the tentacles. It was simply delicious. Palermo_sfinciSince then I’ve visited Sicily countless times with family, friends, and clients. It feels like home. Although the authenticity of the Vucciria market has declined, the Capo and Ballarò markets are a short walk away as are pastry shops serving cannoli, iris, and marzipan sweets as well as traditional and modern restaurants, pizzerias and wine bars. Palermo_pizza Perciasacchi3

    Each visit leads to a new food discovery. It’s an endless adventure. Are you ready to discover Palermo, Italy? Start with these 10 delicious places as written for Olive Magazine.

     

  • Delizia al limone

    Delizia al limone

    amalficoastMany moons ago I visited Cetara with Francesco, my father-in-law and 4-year-old nephew. The day remains etched in my mind. The hot July sun chased us as we sped past sandy beaches, the crystalline waters of the Amalfi Coast and lemon trees. After an hours drive on a seemingly never-ending windy road we arrived at the fishing town of Cetara.amalficoastlemonsIt was here that I met my friend colatura di alici face to face and where I ate my first delizia al limone. After a day of fishing, swimming and sunning, we sat at a coffee bar. It was time for an aperitivo. I spied the ivory domes sitting on golden trays. At first glance, I thought they were a cousin to Sicilian cassata covered in a white glacé rather than marzipan. I was wrong.delizialimone

    The classic dessert is for lemon lovers. Lemons have a long history in Italy. They were first brought to the Amalfi Coast from the Middle East centuries ago. Once used by sailors to avoid scurvy, they were known to have curative properties, aiding digestion and stimulating hunger. By the 1500’s lemons appear in kitchens; finely chopped to flavor roasts, pickled in vinegar and salt and as sauce served with fish.deliziaallimoneravelloThis lemon-centric dessert reminds me of summer days. The scent of the sea and the local yellow fruit bring cravings for delizia al limone. The citrus taste and springy cake are refreshing and light. The bottom layer is made of pan di spagna – sponge cake – soaked in a lemon infused simple syrup or in a limoncello syrup. The filling changes from bakery to bakery. Most use pastry cream infused with lemon zest. Delizia al limone is made in a cake-form frosted with a lemon whipped cream and in individual dome portions. I prefer the latter at the end of a salty beach day in Cetara with family.deliziaallimonecake

  • Colatura di alici – anchovy sauce

    Colatura di alici – anchovy sauce

    August is upon us. It beckons us to the sea, away from steamy city dwellings. Tourists and locals depart for the famous beaches of the Amalfi Coast, Sicily and Sardegna just to name a few. Francesco and I head to off the beaten path seaside destinations known equally for their beaches and culinary specialities. The tiny fishing village of Cetara is on our list. cetaraseaLocated on the Amalfi Coast, it is rarely visited by tourists who speedily drive by to other picturesque and overcrowded towns. Although the beach front is minuscule, the water is crystal clear and Cetara is known for its exceptional seafood and colatura di alici (fermented anchovies likened to Roman garum). The essence of anchovy is the taste that I’m after.

    anchoviescetara

    Simply put the fishy sauce is made by aging anchovies in salt. Caught between April and August, the fresh fish are immediately layered with salt and placed in wood barrels. The barrels are topped with a weighted cover. As the weight gently presses the anchovies an amber liquid is produced. It is naturally preserved by the exposure to sunlight. Once the fish is aged, the liquid is poured back into the barrels to intensify the flavor before it drips out from an opening at the bottom of the barrel. The entire process takes 4-5 months.

    Screen Shot 2016-07-29 at 7.37.02 PMThe most popular colatura centric dish is spaghetti mixed with the sauce, olive oil and crushed garlic cloves. We add a few salted anchovies and parsley to the mix. I also drip it over boiled potatoes.

    Where to order colatura di alici:

    Acqua Pazza
    Gustiamo
    Simon Johnson 
    Volpetti

    Closing image © Simon Johnson for www.simonjohnson.com – all other photography: Gina Tringali

     

     

  • Pizza stuffed with escarole

    Pizza stuffed with escarole

    PizzaScarolaI wake up often with food memories dancing in my head. Visions of pizza dough stuffed with sausages and broccoli, peppers and onions, and escarole braised with black olives, anchovies and smoky olives. Mom filled pizza dough with ingredients that she had in the house. Nothing went to waste. I fought for the corner pieces, in love with the yeasty pillowy golden crust.

    I crawl out of bed and put on the coffee as a taste of childhood memories flood my kitchen in Rome. I savor the umami flavor of anchovies preserved in salt, smashed and stirred into a paste. They disappear into the heavy laden silver pan. The bottom is slightly brown, aged by daily use.

    I pour my coffee all the while thinking of anchovies. They may swim in my Sicilian blood. My paternal grandfather, Sebastiano grew up in Augusta, Sicily and was a fisherman by trade. Silent and stoic, he spent the majority of his life at sea. The simplest dishes of fish and greens were prepared by my grandmother Maria. She too spent her childhood in Augusta. She would have lived her life there given the choice. That’s a story for a different day.

    My mouth starts to water just thinking of pizza stuffed with sweet escarole and buttery pine nuts, and the sea. Here is my version of “pizza con la scarola” aka pizza filled with escarole, anchovies, pine nuts, capers and olives.

    Ingredients for the dough

    • 5 cups of flour
    • 1 cube of yeast
    • 1 1/4 cup of water
    • 3 – 5 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil (EVOO)
    • 1 tablespoon salt
    • grated pecorino cheese to taste
    • 2/3 cup milk

    Ingredients of the filling

    • 2 large heads of escarole
    • gaeta olives (to taste – approximately 3/4 cup)
    • capers (to taste – approximately 1/2 cup)
    • anchovy fillets preserved in olive oil or salt (to taste – 3 or 4 fillets)
    • 2 garlic cloves minced
    • EVOO
    • pine nuts (to taste – approximately 1/4 cup)
    • salt and pepper

    the dough

    Pile the flour in a mound on a marble or wooden surface. Make a well in the center of the mound. Dissolve the brewer’s yeast in tepid water as instructed on the yeast packet. Pour the yeast mixture, EVOO, water, milk and salt into the well. Knead until smooth and elastic adding pecorino cheese to taste to the mixture. Place in a floured bowl. Cover with a cloth and let rise in a warm place until doubled, about 2 hours.PizzaDoughWhile the dough is rising make the filling.

    the filling

    Clean the escarole. Cook the greens in a bit of salted water for about 20 minutes. Once cooked set the escarole aside to drain.

    Heat the olive oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the minced garlic and anchovy fillets. Stir and mash the anchovies until they melt away. Add the olives and the capers. Stir well. Add the pine nuts and the escarole. Salt and pepper to taste. I like to cut the escarole into bite size pieces but it’s not necessary. Lower the flame and mix well.ScarolaPizzaStuffingLet the filling cool while you roll out the dough. PizzaScarolaFillingGrease the pan with olive oil. I use a medium size square pizza pan. Divide the dough in two sections. Use a bit more dough for the base of the pizza letting it flow over the sides of the pizza pan. Roll out the bottom half of the dough in the shape of the pan. Place in well oiled pan, add filling; covering the dough evenly. Top with the remaining dough. Seal the edges by pinching the dough together with your fingers or press together with fork tines. In a pinch use pre-made dough.PizzaCrustCover and set aside in a warm place for an hour. Place in preheated oven at 400° for 40 minutes or until the crust is golden brown. It’s mouthwatering served warm or cold.PizzaScarolaSlice

     


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