Nuovo Mercato Testaccio & “Mordi e Vai” (Tripe Sandwiches)

It is official, the inauguration of the Nuovo Mercato Testaccio (New Testaccio Market) is today. I stopped by the original Mercato di Testaccio and found Carmelo d’Agostino, tomato expert, there alone. Sadly, he’s not moving to the new market but he’s hoping to find a space in Testaccio.

Despite my mixed emotions about the controversial closing of the historical market, the effect on small vendors and seemingly higher prices, I said my goodbyes and went to check out the opening of the new market on Via Galvani.

It was buzzing with locals shopping. I was happy to see familiar faces selling fruit, vegetables and bread. Campagna Amica (an association that promotes local and sustainable agriculture and commerce) had gorgeous chicory, eggplants and tomatoes on display. 

The highlight of my market crawl was finding “Mordi e Vai” run by Sergio Esposito.

He’s serving pizza and three sandwiches stuffed with local favorites each day. Trippa alla romana (tripe Roman style) and l’allesso di carne (boiled meat) will be the two standard fillings. On other days you’ll find sauces like picchiapò and polpettine di vitello e pomodoro (veal meatballs and tomato sauce).

I chose trippa alla romana. Tripe for breakfast? Why not? Sweet tomatoes, mint and pecorino cheese melted with the tender strips of tripe. Ah, happiness…


Mordi e Vai…Gastronomia “romanesca” di Sergio Esposito
Nuovo Mercato Testaccio
Via A. Volta – Box 15 
Tel. 339.1343344

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