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Rome – Page 6 – GT Food & Travel
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Category: Rome

  • Panificio Bonci is open – pizza bianca, bread & biscotti…

    Panificio Bonci is open – pizza bianca, bread & biscotti…

    Panificio Bonci is open! The latest addition to the Gabriele Bonci dynasty opened its doors this week. Last night I attended the launch party where Bonci served up savory and sweet treats.

    Trays of pastry puff pizzette with tomato sauce and absolutely addictive pizza bianca were served. What makes the crust perfectly crisp? skill, love, 2 day dough leavening and quality ingredients (Mulino Marino flour, extra virgin olive oil, water, salt and natural yeast). I’ll queue for this anytime.

     

    Cornetto made with french butter hot out of the oven were sweet, doughy and dense not to be compared to a light, flaky, buttery croissant.


    And there were cookies, panettone and bread that was sublime. Bonci may be one of the pizza kings of Rome but his bread is AMAZING! If you love pumpkin bread be sure to grab a loaf to go.

    Congratulations on the new venture!

    Panificio Bonci
    via Trionfale 34/36 
    tel. 06 39734457
    Open Mon-Sat 7:30 – 22:00, Sun 9:30 – 15:00
  • romeo | chef & baker

    romeo | chef & baker

    I am a huge fan of Glass Hostaria, Salumeria Roscioli and Il Forno Roscioli. When I heard that they were combining forces to create a new venture, I couldn’t wait to experience it. Cristina Bowerman, Fabio Spada and the Roscioli brothers, Pierluigi and Alessandro are the chefs & bakers behind Romeo.

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    Pulling on their collective strengths, Romeo offers thin crust Roman pizza, cheese, cured meats and a complete menu. Since it’s opening last week, I’ve visited for lunch and dinner. Here is what I’ve sampled so far.

    pizza-blanco

    Pizza bianca (pizza topped with olive oil and salt) and slivers of dried fig and raisin whole wheat bread.

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    Marinated beef, roasted red peppers, anchovies, caciocavallo podolico and wild fennel sandwich.

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    Marinated beef, polenta and puntarelle.

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    Castelmagno ravioli with pumpkin foam and hazelnuts.

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    Beef cheek with potato puree and chestnut cream.

    Skate alla saltimbocca with capers and celery mousse.

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    Chocolate fondant all’orzo and espresso sauce with wild berry crumble.

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    I enjoyed the texture-flavor combinations including sharp cheese, sweet fillet and smokey vegetables served on crusty bread  and velvety beef with crumbled polenta and slightly bitter chicory. The star dish was the ravioli bursting with creamy castelmagno topped with earthy pumpkin foam and crunchy hazelnuts. Not only did I savor the food but the service was fantastic, friendly and helpful. I look forward to visiting again very soon.

    Romeo | CHEF & BAKER
    Via Silla, 26/A
    00192 – Rome
    +39 06 32110120
    romeo.roma.it
  • Nuovo Mercato Testaccio & “Mordi e Vai” (Tripe Sandwiches)

    Nuovo Mercato Testaccio & “Mordi e Vai” (Tripe Sandwiches)

    It is official, the inauguration of the Nuovo Mercato Testaccio (New Testaccio Market) is today. I stopped by the original Mercato di Testaccio and found Carmelo d’Agostino, tomato expert, there alone. Sadly, he’s not moving to the new market but he’s hoping to find a space in Testaccio.

    Despite my mixed emotions about the controversial closing of the historical market, the effect on small vendors and seemingly higher prices, I said my goodbyes and went to check out the opening of the new market on Via Galvani.

    It was buzzing with locals shopping. I was happy to see familiar faces selling fruit, vegetables and bread. Campagna Amica (an association that promotes local and sustainable agriculture and commerce) had gorgeous chicory, eggplants and tomatoes on display. 

    The highlight of my market crawl was finding “Mordi e Vai” run by Sergio Esposito.

    He’s serving pizza and three sandwiches stuffed with local favorites each day. Trippa alla romana (tripe Roman style) and l’allesso di carne (boiled meat) will be the two standard fillings. On other days you’ll find sauces like picchiapò and polpettine di vitello e pomodoro (veal meatballs and tomato sauce).

    I chose trippa alla romana. Tripe for breakfast? Why not? Sweet tomatoes, mint and pecorino cheese melted with the tender strips of tripe. Ah, happiness…

     

    Mordi e Vai…Gastronomia “romanesca” di Sergio Esposito
    Nuovo Mercato Testaccio
    Via A. Volta – Box 15 
    Tel. 339.1343344

  • “Sparkling Saturdays” at Vino Roma

    “Sparkling Saturdays” at Vino Roma

    Yesterday I attended “Sparkling Saturdays” led by Hande Leimer, co-founder of Vino Roma. I met Hande recently and can objectively say she is one of most talented wine educators whom I know in Rome. I truly enjoyed the way she presented each bubbly. What a perfect start to a Saturday evening!

    We tasted 5 sparkling wines from two Italian regions, Veneto and Lombardia. Hande explained the method used to produce each in simple terms. She had a group with diverse levels of knowledge and skillfully answered each of our questions. Distinct characteristics allowed us to compare and contrast throughout the 2 hour event.

    After each glass was poured, Hande instructed as to observe, noting the consistency and size of the bubbles. Second, smell, we talked about what aromas were prevalent. Third, taste and fourth, food pairings which was the most fun part for me.

    The first was Colli Trevigiani IGT , Metodo Rurale 2010 by Fratelli Cosmo. The scent of apple sauce filled my nostrils. It was acidic and tart. Given its acidity, Hande suggested a fried starter such as carciofi alla giudia.

    Next was Asolo Prosecco DOCG Sup, Asolo Prosecco Extra Dry by Belecasel. It was aromatic with hints of apricot. More balanced and sweeter than the first, it would be gorgeous with fried soft-shell crab.

    Conegliano Valdobbiadene, S.C. 1931 2009 by Bellenda followed.  The small fine bubbles were persistent and the nose intense and earthy. It pairs well with rabbit, duck or prosciutto. Next, Franciacorta DOCG, Franciacorta Pas Dosé 2006 by Il Mosnel. There was a soft buttery smell. Pappardelle with porcini mushrooms or ravioli with a sage and butter sauce are two dishes to be enjoyed with this wine.

    We ended with Franciacorta DOCG,  Rosé 2007 by Ferghettina. The aroma was blackberries and raspberries. Saltimbocca alla Romana (veal, prosciutto and sage) is a plate to try with this rosé.

    After sipping on the final wine, Hande took us on a tour of her impressive wine cellar. It was a fabulous ending to the tasting.  

    Vino Roma 
    Via In Selci 84/G
    email: mail@vinoroma.com
    cell phone for last minute bookings (+39)328.4874497
  • Artichoke & Chard Savory Pie

    Artichoke & Chard Savory Pie

    In the U.S. when I hear the word pie the smell of baked fruit and cinnamon floods my nostrils. Visions of warm apples in a golden crust topped with melting vanilla ice cream come to mind. In Rome, I think of torta rustica or savory pie. It’s hard to imagine that the Romans made savory pie-like pastries during the Roman times and in Middle Ages. The crust was dense and hardly edible. Its main purpose was to keep meat moist during cooking.

    Thankfully, today’s crust is moist and flaky and stuffed with vegetables, cheese and salami. Every season, I try different vegetable fillings and work on perfecting the crust. Artichoke and chard is my latest and favorite combo.

    Ingredients for the filling 

    • 800 gr (28 oz) of chard, cleaned
    • 6 – 8 artichokes
    • 1 lemon
    • 4 tbsp olive oil
    • 1 onion, chopped
    • 150 gr (5 oz) parmesan cheese, grated
    • Salt & pepper to taste

    Ingredients for the dough 

    • 500 gr (5 1/4 cups) of flour
    • 4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
    • Salt

    Preheat oven to 375°F/190 °C

    Filling

    Clean the chard. Parboil it for 5 minutes. Drain and let cool.

    Chop it.

    Clean the artichokes; discard the tough outer leaves. Slice thinly and place in water with lemon juice to prevent discoloration.

    Heat 2 tablespoons of oil in a saute pan, add chopped onion, let cook for approximately 5 minutes. Add the artichokes, salt and pepper and cook for 10 – 15 minutes or until tender. Add the chard and let cook for 3 – 5 minutes.

    Add the parmesan and 2 tablespoons olive oil.

    Dough

    Mix the flour with olive oil, salt and a generous amount of water. You want the dough to be soft, elastic-like.

    Grease a round baking pan (approximately 24 cm (9.5 in) in diameter) with oil. Roll out half of the dough in the shape of a circle. Place in pan, add filling; covering the dough evenly.

    Top with the remaining dough in the shape of a disk or with strips in a lattice pattern. Seal the edges. If covering with a disk use a fork to prick the crust. In a pinch use pre-made dough.


    Place in preheated oven for approximately 45 mins or until the crust is golden brown.


    Let cool a bit before serving. Enjoy!

    If you’re in Rome, stop by Al Vino Al Vino (Via dei Serpenti 19) for a glass of wine and slice of Giacomo’s homemade torta rustica. Delicious!

  • Antico Forno ai Serpenti – Pane Pizza Biscotti

    Antico Forno ai Serpenti – Pane Pizza Biscotti

    There’s a definite food buzz around Rione Monti punctuated by a few notable openings in the last week.I visited the newly opened “Antico Forno ai Serpenti” and had a chance to interview owner Alessandro Santomauro and talk with Sergio Conti who oversees all baking and bread making. I also spent some time in the kitchen and behind the counter getting to know the staff and sampling many fresh out of the oven goodies.  

    Below is our interview.  I hope you’ll enjoy it!

    Why did you open the forno (bakery)?

    It’s a longstanding personal passion of mine, I’m a lawyer by training and I’ll continue practicing. After deciding to open the forno, my challenge was to find a bread maker/baker who could create the high quality traditional products that I envisioned and an architect to restore the space.  Luckily, I met the Conti family who agreed to work with me in this venture.

    Can you tell me about the Conti family and their role here? 

    The Conti family are very well known and talented in the art of bread and pastry making. They own the “Antico Forno di Trastevere”.  Sergio Conti is onsite daily testing and retesting his family recipes making sure our customers receive consistent delicious baked goods while his sister, Elisabetta, supervises the counter.

    Why did you choose the name “Antico Forno ai Serpenti”?

    It is the name of the original forno which dates back to around 1860. The sign on Via Parnisperna speaks of a time past, of the old forno, so we decided to keep the name but create a interior space that is visibly different. The forno is chameleonic; you can enjoy cornetti (crossaint) for breakfast, lasagna for lunch or a quick after-work aperitivo.

    Why did you choose to design the interior in a 1930s style?

    We wanted to create something different from the common forno format that you see around Rome, to take a risk. We worked with our architect to bring the air of a French brasserie to the space. We personally chose the Carrara marble for the walls and Gialla di Sienna marble for the bench seating. The iron barstools were designed by an artisan in the neighborhood. 

    Which goods do you consider to be your signature products?

    Pizza bianca (Roman style pizza usually topped with olive oil and salt and sold by weight), pizza rossa (Roman style pizza topped with tomato sauce) and traditional breads from the region of Lazio including cioriola romana (individual size bread) and lariano (loaves made from whole wheat, a natural yeast starter, simple yeast dough, salt and water). For sweets I would say cornetti, ciambellone (bundt cake) and brutti ma buoni (ugly but good gluten free) cookies. We’ll also be making panettone this weekend for the holiday season.  

    Can you talk to me a bit more about the products and recipes?

    We are in the opening operational phase so we’re testing and retesting recipes and looking for the best local products to use when available.  For example, we use prosciutto di Bassiano and DOP ricotta romana cheese which are both from the region of Lazio.  For our bread we’re talking with Mulino Marino which is based the region of Piedmont and is known for its top quality flour.

    Can you tell me about the bottled merchandise on display?

    We wanted to offer a line of stellar jarred dips, spreads and pastes that customers could enjoy with our breads at home.  We chose Ursini as our purveyor.  Ursini’s Pestati di Bacco line was developed to be paired with wines and is extremely interesting.  They are based in Abruzzo and like us are dedicated to artisan products.

    Is there anything else you’d like to add? 

    Yes, we want to deliver an all around positive experience to our clients; high quality products, outstanding and friendly customer service and a warm atmosphere.  We are like a big family here and welcome feedback and look forward to getting to know our customers.

    You can visit Antico Forno ai Serpenti on the corner of Via Parnisperna and Via dei Serpenti, Monday – Saturday from 7:00 am to 10:00pm and Sunday from 7:00 am to 2:00 pm.  Don’t miss a warm cornetto, pizza bianca and la mela in camicia (apple wrapped in flaky pastry dough pictured above) best straight out of the oven!

  • Mauro Musso’s Magical Pasta

    Mauro Musso’s Magical Pasta

    Thanks to a 7-course pasta tasting organized by Katie Parla and hosted by Beppe e I Suoi Formaggi, I had the chance to meet Mauro Musso and taste his magical pasta. Mauro’s passion for his craft and his quest for rare flours are inspiring. Two weeks later and I’m still craving the one dish that went against the grain of the tajarin themed extravaganza; casarecce di segale bianca (rolled white rye) pasta served with three fragrant cheeses (goat, cow and sheep) and toasted walnuts.

    I asked Mauro for his advice on the best was to recreate this dish. He recommends serving the pasta warm with aged cheeses (preferably made from sheep’s & cow’s milk) cut into cubes. They should be piquant but not spicy nor strong like blue cheese. Add a few mushrooms preserved in oil and a trio of chopped walnuts, pine nuts and almonds. Take care to add small amounts of cheese, mushrooms and nuts to enjoy the flavor of the rye itself.  Slightly warm all ingredients before tossing them with the casarecce so that they do not affect the temperature of the pasta.  I know what I’ll be cooking on Sunday!

    For more information on Mauro and his pasta visit the Casa dei Tajarin di Mauro Musso website. In Rome, his pasta is for sale at Beppe’s and at Pizzarium.  For more about November’s pasta tasting festivities see posts at Parla Food and Aglio, Olio e Peperoncino.

     

     

     

     

     

     


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