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Rome – Page 7 – GT Food & Travel
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Category: Rome

  • Hostaria da Settimio – My Neighborhood Trattoria

    Hostaria da Settimio – My Neighborhood Trattoria

    Last weekend, I had lunch at one of my go-to-spots, Hostaria da Settimio in Monteverde. I stumbled upon it in November 2009.  Honest prices, homey food and a welcoming owner make for a winning recipe.  Carla, the mayor of Settimio, bops from table to table reciting the menu, taking orders and chatting with the regulars. Extremely knowledgeable and passionate about cucina romana, she enjoys discussing traditional Roman food. In fact we were waxing poetic about animelle, rigatoni con la pajata and coda alla vaccinara, three of our mutually loved dishes.

    We snuck in without a reservation.  By 1:30 the dining room was packed. Starters include carciofi alla giudia (deep friend artichoke), suppli and salumi from Norcia. First courses include Roman pastas like cacio e pepe (pasta with grated pecorino romano cheese and black pepper), amatriciana and gricia (tomato-less amatriciana).

    We ordered cacio e pepe. There is something magical about this seemingly simple dish. When done well it is velvety, peppery and deliciously sharp.  Next, pappardelle al cinghiale (fresh pasta with a tomato-wild boar sauce); originally from Tuscany, it is the odd man out on the Roman pasta menu. The sweet, nutty and intense flavor reminds me of autumn; a comforting and hearty dish.

    Second courses include polpette (meatballs), abbacchio (lamb) and saltimbocca alla Romana.

    Side dishes include cicoria ripassata (chicory sauteed with olive oil, garlic and spicy red pepper), spinach and grilled seasonal vegetables. When in season, I order a salad of puntarelle (a type of chicory) as a side dish. The bitter green stalks are tossed in a dressing of anchovies, lemon juice, olive oil and garlic. If you love anchovies like me, you’ll want to mop up every last fishy drop with a hunk of bread.

    Desserts include tiramisu, crostata (a tart usually filled with jam) and fresh fruit.

    Visit Settimio for Roman pasta specialties, a lively atmosphere and honest prices. Average cost per person including a starter, pasta or main dish, a bottle of water and wine is 20 – 25 euro.

     Hostaria da Settimio
    Via di val Tellina, 29
    06.58230701
    Open Tuesday – Sunday  for lunch & dinner

     

     

  • Glass Hostaria – Where Rome Meets NYC

    Glass Hostaria – Where Rome Meets NYC

    Last week, I clicked my heels together walking down a Trastevere street.  My mind, eyes and stomach were delightfully confused. I had just finished a 5 hour fine dining experience at Glass Hostaria.

    Located in the heart of Trastevere, Glass boasts the highly creative cuisine of Chef Cristina Bowerman, modern décor, professional service and an extensive wine list. Our table chose the 90 euro tasting menu. Dishes included ravioli filled with liquid 60-month aged parmesan topped with white truffle shavings and duck breast with pumpkin and glazed banana in a red wine sauce.  

    Each course was well executed and beautifully presented. Red shrimp covered with dehydrated prosciutto from Parma in a lettuce and oyster coulis served with a scoop of Barlotti ricotta di bufala was a powerful flavor combination. The savory bacon-like morsels, succulent shrimp and luscious cheese melted on the tongue. Sea bass, edamame, algae and lotus root salad crowned with apple granita was crisp and clean.

    Three pasta themed dishes followed. Pastificio dei Campi linguine cooked in roasted red pepper water looked like a miniature beehive garnished with cilantro. It was sweet and smokey. Floating in a tuber broth, button pasta stuffed with pine nuts and herbs was fresh and delicate. The favorite in the pasta category was the 60-month aged parmesan ravioli with white truffle shavings; piquant, earthy and aromatic.

    Duck breast with pumpkin and glazed banana in a red wine sauce was served next. The meat was nicely cooked and tender. The main dessert was a yogurt semifreddo with verbena oil. Adorned with flowers and sprouts it was an unexpected delight.

    Be sure to leave room for the gorgeous petits mignardises.

    A 65 euro and 90 euro tasting menu are available or you can order à la carte. We agreed that the tasting menu was one of the best and most unique meals that we have enjoyed in Rome. I can’t wait to return and sample more of Bowerman’s unique dishes…I’ve got glazed eel on my mind.

    Glass Hostaria 
    Vicolo del Cinque, 58 – Rome
    tel: 06-58335903
    Open: Tuesday – Sunday; 8:00pm – 11:30pm
  • Music, Symbols and Metaphors – An Exhibit by Elena Di Cesare

    Music, Symbols and Metaphors – An Exhibit by Elena Di Cesare

    Last Thursday, I attended the opening party of an art exhibit by an Italian-Australian artist, Elena Di Cesare (aka Archibaldi) at Contesta Rock Hair in Rione Monti. Elena is a close friend and incredibly inspiring and talented artist. I have been privy to watching her pieces evolve over the past 4 years from sketches of emperors, warriors and the empress to expressive and evocative prints.

    Her basic concept, influenced by the writings of Sufi master, Hazrat Inayat Khan, is that true art is created when an artist connects with the divine through her work, achieving beauty that only can emerge when an artist forgets herself in the vision of a universal whole. Elena explains how dots/points are the source of everything created by nature and that the dot is the elemental essence of all that we want to represent and communicate, especially in the field of art.

    Many friends and fans attended the event. The most discussed pieces of the night were “Guerriero” and “Giovane Guerriero”. My personal favorites are “Guerriero” and “The Empress”. In “The Empress”, her head is tilted subtly back and her gaze is directed toward the night sky. Her body is decorated with tattoos. She is fearless; she is beauty; she is enlightened.

    The exhibit is on display at Contesta Rock Hair until the December 5.

    Contesta Rock Hair
    Via degli Zingari 9
    tel. +39 06 478237
    Open: Tuesday, Friday & Saturday from 9 – 19:30; Wednesday & Thursday from 10:00 – 22:00

     

     

     

     

  • Picchiapò & Cicoria Strascinata at Da Benito

    Picchiapò & Cicoria Strascinata at Da Benito

    I had lunch today with Context Travel food docents, Eleonora and Brette at Da Benito in the Jewish Ghetto. It is a no frills family run Roman trattoria. By the time I arrived orders had been placed. I quickly hopped on my fellow foodies bandwagon ordering picchiapò and cicoria strascinata (chicory sauteed with olive oil, garlic and hot red pepper).

    Picchiapò is typically made from pieces of beef boiled to make broth. The meat is combined with a mixture of sauteed onion, olive oil, white wine and peeled tomatoes. I am glad that I followed my friends expert advice. It was succulent and satisfying…Roman comfort food. What a great start to the weekend!

    Da Benito is located at Via dei Falegnami, 14.
  • Making Pizza with Bonci at Tricolore

    Making Pizza with Bonci at Tricolore

    I’ve been waiting months to take Gabriele Bonci’s pizza course at Tricolore. Since the rush of bloggers, foodies and groupies partook in this Roman Pizza Guru’s initial lessons back in January, many of the kinks of this 2 day, 170 euro course have been worked out. Special thanks to writers like Katie Parla for giving their feedback about the first classes.

    I attended the two-day course on May 26/27 with my friend, Kathy. I was hooked within the first 5 minutes of the lesson when Bonci said “Cibo è sociale” (food is social). It sums up the way I feel about food and cooking, an experience to be shared, enjoyed and cherished. He teaches you to think like a chef rather than follow a recipe. While a basic recipe is necessary for the dough, it is not the end all be all, there are a number of factors that must be considered including the weather, type of flour, yeast, rising time, etc…See “Elizabeth Minchilli In Rome” blog for a detailed explanation of how to make Bonci’s famous crust.

     

    We learned how to make Pizza al Taglio (pizza by the slice) from the master himself. Pizza by the slice is Roman street food at its best. We quickly learned how it can be recreated in large rectangular pans in our electric ovens at home. On the first day, we made our own dough with a recipe adapted for home use and made pizza bianca from Bonci’s dough. On the second day, we made pizza from our dough which had rested and expanded overnight. Toppings included red onions, peppers, fresh cherry tomatoes, pancetta with shaved pecorino cheese, spinach and mortadella…heavenly.

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    The highlight of each night for me was the creative dishes encrusted in pizza dough. On the first day, Bonci encased two chickens stuffed with peppers, lemons and herbs in pizza crust. On day two, he wrapped pork loin topped with pancetta, orange, apples and prunes in his famous dough and a mixture of rabbit with olives in a bowl shaped crust. At the end of each class we eagerly watched as he removed the steaming top to reveal the succulent dish inside. The chicken was quickly carved, plated and adorned with a lemon sauce while the pork was served with an orange prune salsa. Each was accompanied with a piece of the delectable savory crust. I can’t wait to make these at home to share with friends!

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    If you’re in Rome, be sure to indulge in Bonci’s pizza and bread at his pizzeria “Pizzarium” , Rome’s most prized pizza by the slice shop.  Address: Via della Meloria, 43; telephone 06 39745416; Cipro metro stop.

     

     

     

     

     

     

  • Friday Night at L’Osteria di Monteverde

    Friday Night at L’Osteria di Monteverde

    Last Friday, I had dinner at L’Osteria di Monteverde.  I’ve been a bit anti-Osteria di Monteverde since it took over the space of a popular locale and the menu was changed to typical Roman fare.  I visited the Osteria when it first opened its doors in September and wasn’t impressed but after much hype, I decided it was time to give it another go.

    Friday night, I was thrilled to see that chef, Roberto Campitelli had added many fish dishes to his repertoire.  Roberto is the chef and Fabio Tenderini runs the front of the house. The service is warm and the interior is simple.

    By 9:30 there wasn’t a seat left in the dining room. A steamy basket of irresistible artisan bread and grissini arrived quickly. Antipasti of zucchini flowers stuffed with ricotta, wrapped in prosciutto, served over saffron sauce and raw seabream in sesame oil were well presented. The nutty oil was a great compliment to the thinly sliced fish, mixed salad and yogurt sauce.

    Primi (first courses) included tagliolini pasta with pesce azzuro (typically mackerel, sardines and anchovies), spring onion, lemon and balsamic vinegar and pacchero pasta with arugula and fresh tuna. The tagliolini was the clear winner in this category. The homemade pasta tossed with meaty white morsels of fish was delicately balanced with lively citrus, onion and rich balsamic accents.

    Secondi (second courses) included seared tuna lightly coated in breadcrumbs with eggplant caviar and coda alla vaccinara (Roman stew made of oxtail, tomatoes and other vegetables). The coda was stewed to perfection, succulent and savory. I’ll be heading back for this dish; no doubt.

    I ended the meal with lemon cheesecake in caramel sauce dusted with powdered sugar and an espresso. The crust was moist and divine.

    Average cost per person including a bottle of water, ½ bottle of wine and coffee is 35 euro; reservations recommended.

     

    Osteria di Monteverde

    Via Pietro Cartoni 163/165

    Tel. 06 53273887

     

  • Easter Egg Explosion

    Easter Egg Explosion

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    Easter is right around the corner. Bakers and bread makers are churning out colombe, casatiello (easter bread made with pieces of salame, pecorino cheese and eggs) and la pastiera napoletana. Artisans work round-the-clock cranking out chocolate creations.

    Like all food, Italians take chocolate  seriously, especially at Pasqua (Easter).  Mini eggs, fish and chicken-shaped  goodies wrapped in pink, silver and gold  foil flood shop windows. Classic hollow  chocolate eggs come in every size and  contain surprise toys.  Many Italians  bring  specially selected gifts to their  choice chocolate maker to be encased in  massive chocolate eggs.

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    I can’t help but be mesmerized. Enjoy!

     

     

    If you find yourself  in Rome around       Easter, here’s are are two places where   you can get the good stuff:

     

     

     

    Moriondo & Gariglio

    Via del Pie’ di Marmo, 21/22  – 06 699 0856

    You know it’s Easter time when you walk by Rome’s oldest and finest chocolatier. There is a line out the door. All chocolate and Easter confections are crafted on-site.  Order your custom chocolate Easter eggs here.

    SAID

    Via Tiburtina 135 – 06.446 9204

    This antique chocolate factory was founded in 1923 in the university area of San Lorenzo. Whether you grab a seat in the café to sample some Easter treats or take a carton of hollow chocolate eggs to go, you won’t be disappointed.  The eggs coated in hazelnut and ground cocoa bits are delightful.

     

     

     

     

     


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