Last night I dreamt of my grandparents who passed away many years ago. We were gathered around the kitchen table, laughing, talking and eating as usual. As tomorrow is All Souls’ Day, my superstitious self said “how appropriate you had a visit from the dead” so here’s to my grandparents.Thanks for the visit.
Celebrating the dead may sound morbid. I remember it as a day when we would visit the cemetery. Although it is a Catholic celebration, this festival has ancient, pagan roots. It is a day where offerings are made to the dead to honor them and the sweetness of life is celebrated.
It is also a day of beginnings. Farmers plant seeds today in hopes that the dead will bless the seeds with new life. It is a day when I recall the sweetest of Sicilian sweets La Frutta di Martorana (marzipan fruits).
Painted in vibrant colors, these marzipan fruits are said to have been created by nuns of the Martorana convent in Palermo for the archbishop’s visit on the Day of the Dead. He was awestruck by the fruit hanging from trees in the cloister. These sugary treats are now made all the year round but are given to children in memory of All Souls’ Day.
My favorite places to eat la frutta di martorana in Sicily are Cappello in Palermo and at Perlata in San Vito Lo Capo.
“It all started with la graffa, a Sicilian fluffy donut jam-packed with sweet ricotta and dusted with sugar. When I was 11 years old, my parents sent me to apprentice with a barber. I spent my weekly earnings on movie tickets and graffe. With my love of sweets and empty pockets, it was apparent that I was meant to be a baker not a barber”, said 
Peralta has been open for more than 32 years. It churns out traditional Sicilian desserts like biscotti di mandorle (cookies made from a base of almond paste), 
The marble countertop was a field of moon, star and ball shaped morsels made from pasta di mandorla (almond paste)
Next stop, cannoli! The dough is rolled out, wrapped around wooden tubes and piled on a tray before frying.
Sheep’s milk ricotta, candied orange peel and confectioners sugar filling is mixed and set aside. Unlike most pastry shops outside of Sicily, here shells are filled on order. This combined with the skill of the baker guarantees a delicate crisp pastry.
And the finishing heavenly touches…crushed pistachios and syrupy citrus strands are placed on the ricotta.
Onto the king of Sicilian desserts, cassata siciliana, made with layers of liquor-soaked sponge cake and a mixture of sweetened sheep’s milk ricotta and dark chocolate bits. Tin pans are lined with the sponge. The luscious cheese combo is smoothed on top and the cassata is flipped over.
Vito prides himself on making “proper cassata” which equals an elaborately decorated work of art. After the flip, it’s encased in a strip of pale green marzipan, glazed with white icing and adorned with crystallized oranges, pears and cherries. The glistening fruit wedges appear like flower petals.
I recently spent a week at San Vito Lo Capo. I couldn’t wait to buy, cook and eat local seafood. First stop, Pescheria Alfonso, where I met Alfonso Battaglia, the owner, heart and smile behind the counter.
A rainbow of octopus, shrimp and red mullet was displayed. Speckled lobsters wriggled. Clams launched water into the air. I wanted to taste everything.
It’s hot as #@! in Rome. All I can think about is my recent escape to San Vito Lo Capo, Sicily. Home to crystal clear water, white sandy beaches and stunning mountains, it is the birthplace of the caldo freddo (hot cold) dessert.
Caldo freddo is an extravaganza of sponge cake soaked in liquor, gelato (italian ice cream) and whipped cream covered in hot dark chocolate sauce served in a terra cotta bowl. I ordered the classic version packed with gelato al caffè (coffee ice cream) but choose any gelato flavor you like. The velvety chocolate topping slowly melted through the layers of whipped cream and gelato to the rum soaked cake base. Sigh, I’d love to dig into one today, cool off with a swim and grab a seaside aperitif but that will have to wait until next summer.
Here’s my list of the 10 most memorable meals that I enjoyed outside of home cooked delicacies (that’s an entire list in itself!). All are separate but equal. Enjoy and warm wishes for a New Year filled with good food, drink and lots of love!
Trattoria da Salvo
We started with polpette di pesce neonata grigliate (grilled whitebait patties). The fluffy clouds were laced with peppery parsley, parmesan and topped with a splash of lemon juice. They were cooked perfectly. (Note: I learned yesterday that there is an EU-wide fishing ban on neonata due to overfishing. I will not be ordering neonata anytime soon and encourage others to do the same).
In Sicily, I search out ricci di mare in any form I can get my hands on. Creamy and bright, it tastes and speaks of the sea. The plump potato pillows in a light fish sauce topped with coral bits and toasted green gems were luscious.
Spaghetti mixed with tender shrimp and chunks of fish was complimented by sweet grated almonds.