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agustarello – GT Food & Travel
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Tag: agustarello

  • For My Love of Artichokes

    For My Love of Artichokes

    When carciofi romaneschi or mammola (similar to a globe artichoke) are in season, I want to eat them every day. The crop of violet-green beauties fill market stands in Rome from February to May. My family stuffed their conical-shaped cousin with breadcrumbs, olive oil, garlic and parsley. We slid our teeth from the bottom to the top of each leaf savoring a bit of flesh messily extracted amongst the oily breading. As delicious as each leaf was it was the delicate heart that I saved for the last bite.
    RomanArtichokesAlthough, I live in Rome I spend oodles of time in Naples and Sicily where artichokes come in different shapes, sizes and preparations. In Naples, we eat them sliced thinly, battered and fried. In Siracusa, Sicily, we opt for a golden bread stuffed version.Siracusa_GazzaLadra_chokesIn my kitchen, I slice, sauté and mix them into a torta rustica with other vegetables and cheese. I throw them into pasta dishes and frittata. When fava beans, small sweet peas and artichokes grace food markets together, vignarola fills our plates. This Roman springtime vegetable trio sometimes include tender lettuce hearts and guanciale. When in Rome, keep an eye out for carciofi alla romana and carciofi alla giudia on menus. In prepping carciofi alla romana, the tough outer leaves are artfully cut away leaving a rose-like light green and lavender flower. The artichokes are stuffed with chopped garlic and mentuccia (pennyroyal) and cooked gently, stalks upward, in a bit of water and olive oil until they are fragrant and tender. romanartichokesCarciofi alla giudia is a speciality of the Jewish community. The leaves are trimmed and spread out like a flower before being deep-fried. The result: silky interior enveloped by crisp leaves. Devour every bit. Artichoke Fried

    If you’re in Rome and hankering for artichokes like me, here are a few of my favorite places for carciofi alla romana:

    And for carciofi alla giudia:

  • Agustarello in Testaccio

    Agustarello in Testaccio

    Just a few blocks away from the Nuovo Mercato di Testaccio lies Agustarello, a family-run trattoria boasting excellent traditional Roman dishes that taste just like mamma’s cooking, so to speak.

    Named for its founder, Agustarello, the trattoria is now run by his son, Alessandro, and Alessandro’s wife Antonella. Over the years, they’ve built a reputation for delicious dishes and friendly, attentive service by keeping the family in the kitchen and on the floor. Alessandro and Antonella both cook and take care of their guests, making a meal at Agustarello akin to being invited into a Roman home for dinner.

    Coda alla vaccinara

    Here I’ve compiled a menu of Agustarello’s must-try specialties. Stick to this menu and you’ll walk away having experienced the authentic Roman philosophy on life and food away from the tourist circuit. (Important note: I recommend having an overflowing basket of their fresh bread on hand to wipe up every last drop of these fabulous dishes.) Puntarelle saladFor primi, I recommend tonarelli alla gricia – a traditional Roman pasta dish, gricia consists of olive oil, Pecorino Romano cheese, and guanciale (cured pork jowl). It’s the epitome of Roman comfort food. For your secondi, try coda alla vaccianara (oxtail prepared in the butcher’s style) with an insalata di puntarelle (chicory salad). The oxtail is stewed to tender perfection and served up drenched in a rich cocoa infused sauce, while crunchy curls of young chicory are dressed in a mixture of olive oil, garlic, and anchovy paste.

    Cherry Crostata

    Wrap up your meal with an espresso and a slice of one of Antonella’s homemade desserts! Pictured above is her crostata di visciole (cherry tart).

    They say the best way to fully appreciate Italian culture (and food) is to sit down to dinner with a Roman and his family in their home. Dining at Agustarello is a lot like that. So if you find yourself exploring the Testaccio neighborhood, make sure to stop in at Agustarello for a meal of classic Roman cuisine!

    Agustarello
    Via Giovanni Branca, 100
    +3906574 6585
     Open: Mon-Sat 12:30-15:00 & 19:30-24:00
  • Top 5 Coda alla Vaccinara (Oxtail Stew)

    Top 5 Coda alla Vaccinara (Oxtail Stew)

    I giggle when I think of the first time I ate coda alla vaccinara (oxtail stew) more than 6 years ago. I was at a trattoria in Trastevere with a dear friend/chef. After appetizers, pasta, a main course and dessert the conversation went like this…”I could eat something else, you? You’ve never had oxtail?! you call yourself a food person and you’ve never tasted coda.” So our second dessert was coda alla vaccinara and there began my obsession. I’ve been chasing the best tail in Rome ever since.

    CodaVaccinara

    Coda alla vaccinara is a Roman specialty. Recipes vary. The tail is cut into pieces and slowly boiled with carrot, leek, celery, bay leaves and thyme. Prosciutto or lardo is browned with onion and added to the stew. Next steps? Add white or red wine and let it evaporate. Add tomato puree, salt and pepper. Some recipes call for pine nuts, raisins, dark chocolate, cinnamon and nutmeg.

    Here are my top 5  places to dig into coda.

    Agustarello is my absolute favorite informal place to indulge in coda. Wafts of cocoa fill the air as the plate floats from the kitchen to the table. Tender oxtail with pine nuts, chocolate and spices wins my heart and stomach every time.

    codaagustarello

    Cesare al Casaletto is my go to trattoria not only for beautifully braised oxtail but also for classic Roman pasta dishes. The off-the-beaten track gem serves a refined coda alla vaccinara, delicate with lovely stewed tomato flavors. 

    CodaCesare2

    Checchino dal 1887 is my choice for a special occasion. The somewhat formal Roman institution serves top notch offal and oxtail with a subtle hint of chocolate. The wine list is also a plus.

    Trapizzino is the place for trapizzini (triangular pockets of pizza bianca) filled with coda alla vaccinara. Pop in for a quick bite. The outstanding sauce and crusty pizza make a delectable meal on the go. Get your coda-trapizzino fix at the Testaccio shop or head to the Ponte Milvio location at Piazzale Ponte Milvio 13.

    Hostaria da Settimio is my neighborhood joint. The no frills hostaria serves coda stewed in a dense tomato sauce. Honest prices, a warm atmosphere and good food make for a winning recipe.

    CodaSettimio1


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