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Wine – Page 3 – GT Food & Travel
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Category: Wine

This category celebrates all that is the beauty of wine.

  • Vineyard Visit to the Roman Countryside

    Vineyard Visit to the Roman Countryside

    elliotA recent Friday morning in August my friends Gina, Eleonora, and our 8 year old mascot (and budding photographer) Elliot set out early of hot and dusty Rome headed for the Roman wine country nearby. Olevano Romano is an hour South-east of the city center and an historic location known for its Cesanese wine. Produced for centuries on the rolling hills of Lazio, Cesanese is a robust red that in its variations can be spicy, smooth, fruity and rustic.cesaneseDamiano Ciolli, the vintner who invited us for a tasting that day, is a fourth generation winemaker and his grapes reflect both his father, grandfather and great-grandfather but also himself. A handsome 30-something, he has planted younger vines of Cesanese Comune, which are slightly different from the older Cesanese di Affile, but also is experimenting with white Ottonese grapes of the Bellone variety. Cesanese4After visiting the small 15-acre vineyard, we went into the ‘cave’ to taste some of his most recent labels (from 2010 to 2013). Interestingly for an amateur like me, the wines were fermenting in oak barrels from Bordeaux and Burgundy as well as stainless steel and cement. The cement surprised me but they were surprisingly beautiful and Damiano assured me they work very well since they let in oxygen (he added: ‘wine is a living creature’).SileneAfter the tasting and a quick look at his amazing tractor, which Elliot was really impressed with, we chatted about Damiano’s mother who was in the kitchen preparing lunch. Promising to come back and cook with his ‘mamma’, we headed off to the center of town to feast on one of the best meals I’ve had (and that’s saying a lot!).Tabletop‘Sora Maria e Arcangelo’ is a restaurant that is taking local, seasonal ingredients and re-inventing typical Lazio cuisine. Of course the famed Cesanese wines feature prominently and we had a rustic natural one from Piglio called Vicinale from the La Visciola vineyard.

    SuppliAs far as food, there were the famous ‘Suppli’, or rice balls, filled with wild porcini mushrooms and saffron, the seasonal ‘fiori di zucca’, or zucchini blossoms, stuffed with cheese and anchovies plus an eggplant parmesan that was beautifully served in a small Le Creuset pot. The first course was cannelloni stuffed with veal and dressed with san marzano tomatoes and mozzarella—sublime! The entrees were also late summer: rabbit filled with eggplant on an eggplant puree and roast chicken (the most delicious, crispiest skin I’ve ever tasted) with wild rosemary and peppers.epplantparmcannelloniblackberrycakeAs if all that was not enough, there was dessert: a wild blackberry and lemon tart, or tartella, with lemon gelato and a ‘tiramisu’ that only had mascarpone in common with the classic one. In fact it was like a lemon cream pudding with peaches and wild strawberries (we called it a ‘tiramisopra’). Deelish!

    melogranoWe ended with an amaro made of pomegranates and then chatted with chef Giovanni Milana and his mother in the kitchen before heading back to the city well sated and happy. There’s nothing like spending a day with friends eating and drinking well.

    Buon appetito!

  • Sicily Part 2 – The Etna Wine Lab & I Vigneri

    Sicily Part 2 – The Etna Wine Lab & I Vigneri

    This is part 2 of a 3 part post of my favorite memories from my last trip to Sicily. You can find Part 1 here.

    As I walked between the alberello vines at 1200 meters my heart raced like a child waiting to jump out of bed on Christmas morning. It’s no secret that I love natural wine makers. I’ve wanted to visit I Vigneri on Etna for years and I was finally there.vignabosca2Let me take a step back. I met the founders of The Etna Wine Lab, Benjamin Spencer and Valeria Carastro, at the Digital Wine Communications Conference in 2013. Their line up of Etna wine producers ranged from traditional vineyards like Scirto to the historic Benanti. As I tasted and talked with Ben and Valeria, I was transported to Etna. The unique wines like their tours reminded me of a quote on The Etna Wine Lab Website. “We create memorable excursions focused on the history, traditions, and contemporary trends found on the mountain.” They did just that for my family. 

    20140515-familywIvigneriOur full day tour started in Giarre. Ben and Valeria gave us an introduction to the history of wine production in the Etna zone before we hopped on the Circumetnea train (that’s a very jet lagged Ben in the black shirt and Valeria in the #winelover t-shirt). Our tour would include visits to I Vigneri, Feudo Vagliasindi and Planeta, giving us a glimpse of the history, tradition and contemporary trends on Etna.20140515-TrainStationThe train circled Mt. Etna and we took in the changing landscape, vegetation and vineyards.

    20140515-etnafromtrainOur first stop was at I Vigneri’s Vigna Bosco vineyard. Salvo Foti and I Vigneri are a point of reference for Etna wines, organic viticulture and traditional farming (for more about Salvo Foti and I Vigneri click here). Maurizio Pagano, manager of the vineyard workers, greeted us when we stepped off the train.  20140515-valeriainactionMaurizio’s passion for viticulture and love and respect for each alberello vine was evident. He said “A vineyard that is 130 years old is like a 90 year old person. You must respect it like you respect your elders, not forcing it to be something that it is not but appreciating it for what it is.” alberelloThe second vineyard we visited was the Vigna Centenaria. We stood on a turretta (little tower) looking down on the expansive 240 year old vineyard. Maurizio and Valeria pointed out the main grape varieties planted here, Nerello Mascalese and Alicante. Each alberello was beautifully crooked and distinct. Traditional alberello vines have graced Etna since ancient times. I am deeply in awe of their uniqueness and grace. vigna centenariaMaurizio half jokingly asked if we’d like to grab a hoe and start working amongst the vines. Using his 60-year-old Sicilian dialect, my dad quickly told him he’d hoed enough in his life already. Apparently there were no volunteers. It was lunch time and time to taste. tableIVigneriA feast of bruschetta, local cheese, fusilli pasta with le sparacogne (wild asparagus), sausages and more awaited us. IVigneriTastingAngelo di Grazia, a young enologist, who works with I Vigneri presented five wines to us. Vigna di Milo 2012 made from Carricante grapes was fresh and spoke of the sea and orange blossoms.alnusvinudiliceThe light-ruby colored rosé, Alnus Etna Rosato 2012 smelled and tasted like strawberries and raspberries. Vinudilice Rosato 2013 was salmon pink in color – a vibrant blend of Alicante, Minella, Nerello Cappuccio and Grecanico. Wild raspberries jumped out of my glass. I’m a huge fan of rosé wine and Alnus and Vinudilice were intriguing. Both were lovely with the appetizers and pasta.20140515-bruschetta20140515-cheeseplate20140515-pastavigneriThe red cherry taste and lively acidity of VINUPETRA were fabulous partners for the grilled sausage. The wines were vivacious, a true expression of the ancient vines, volcanic soil and I Vigneri. We ate, laughed and drank nourishing ourselves. With mom to my right and dad across from me the day could not have been more perfect. I wanted to freeze this moment in time. sausagesSadly it was time to drive to the next vineyard. At that point Maurizio could have easily put me to work in the vineyard but instead he handed me a bottle of wine as a gift and asked my dad when he was going to teach me to speak Sicilian. Another thing to add to my bucket list. IVigneri4

    to be continued…Sicily Part 3 – On Etna with The Etna Wine Lab

     

  • Le volpi e l’uva Wine Bar in Florence

    Le volpi e l’uva Wine Bar in Florence

    luvavolpe2Everyone these days is looking to eat at an authentic Italian enoteca. It is becoming increasingly harder to find one that hasn’t yet conformed to tourism and let go of its old world originality. Well, I have news for you, my hope in a good traditional enoteca experience has been restored. Le volpi e l’uva, an intimate wine bar, has an authentic and rustic Italian feel and leaves you craving for more.

    katie 4

    After ordering the crostone al pomodoro e olive taggiasche (crusty bread topped with tomatoes and olives) the waitress recommended I have a glass of Trentino D.O.C. Marzemino Armando Simoncelli 2012. Le Volpi e l'uva1Complimenting the abundance of asiago cheese, tomatoes, and green olives with a drizzle of olive oil, this slightly dry and not-too-sweet wine, exceeded my expectations. The ruby red wine had genuine flavors from the ancient wine making traditions of Trentino while maintaining its young fresh and fruity taste. Its food friendly qualities put an extra crunch of energy to my meal. Delicious food, flavorful wine and great company made for a great night at at Le Volpi e e l’Uva.

    Katie 2

    Le Volpi e l’Uva
    Piazza de’ Rossi 1
    Telephone +39 055 239 81 32
    Email: info@levolpieluva.com
     
    *Words & photos by Katie Reporto
  • FVG Wine Tasting at Vino Roma

    FVG Wine Tasting at Vino Roma

    DSC_3050-4

    Vino Roma is a wine studio where you can learn about Italian wines through guided tastings. I’ve attended both “My Italians” and “Sparkling Saturdays“. Last week a special tasting, “Super Wines of Friuli” was on the calendar. With sommelier exams on my mind, I couldn’t wait to delve into this region with wine educator, colleague and friend Hande Leimer (pictured below).

    DSC_3055-4

    Our first stop was the Colli Orientali del Friuli DOC appellation where many of Italy’s finest whites are found. In this hilly zone of Friuli Venezia Giulia (FVG) the soils are marl. Mountains protect vineyards from harsh northern cold while winds from the Adriatic Sea result in a more temperate climate.

    3 whites

    The flight included Sauvignon 2011 (100% Sauvignon Blanc) from La Tunella winery; Pinot Grigio 2010 (100% Pinot Grigio) by Livio Felluga and Vigne Cinquantanni 2008 (100% Friulano) produced by Le Vigne di Zamo.

    DSC_3051-4

    First, Hande told us to note the color of the wine. Second, we talked about the aroma. Third, taste and fourth, food pairings. The Sauvignon was crisp with scents of orange blossom, green grass and citrus fruit. The Pinot Grigio was dry, bitter and persistent. The Friulano spoke of apricots, juniper and resin and tasted spicy.

    orange wines

    The 2nd group of wines from the Venezia Giulia IGT appellation were more natural, unfiltered and orange in color. Grape skins are left for a long period of time during maceration resulting in tannin extraction and a very intense color. Natural winemakers use minimal chemical and technological intervention in the vineyard and wine cellar.

    DSC_3058-4

    Ice tea, peaches and caramel were the first impressions of Malvasia 2008 (100% Malvasia Istriana) by the Damijan winery. The deep amber Oslavje 2002 by Radikon had overtones of ripe fruit, honey and nuts; a blend of 40% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Grigio and 30% Sauvignon Blanc, it was complex, persistent and tannic.

    2 reds

    The third group was two reds. The first was Refosco 2008 (100% Refosco dal Peduncolo) from Ronchi di Cialla. It was fresh with balanced acidity and a blackberry and balsamic nose. The second was a surprise from the nearby Veneto region, Valpolicella Ripasso 2009 (Corvina, Convinone & Rondinella blend) from Antolini. The “ripasso” (repassed) technique produced a crisp and balanced ruby red wine with the fragrance of cherries, mint and vanilla.

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    Two dessert wines completed our trip to FVG and Veneto. Vola Vola 2007 (Picolit, Verduzzo, Sauvignon Blanc blend) from Le Vigne di Zamo had bitter almond and honey aromas. Recioto della Valpolicella Classico 2007 (Corvina, Corvinone, Rondinella blend) by Antolini smelt of jam, cherry brandy and cinnamon.

    9 wines

    What an unique, fun and educational experience! We tasted 9 wines each with a distinct personality. I’m itching to try some of Hande’s suggested pairings like Vigne Cinquantanni 2008 with pumpkin ravioli, Radikon’s Oslavjie 2002 with risotto and Recioto della Valpolicella Classico with molten chocolate cake.

     
    Vino Roma
    Via In Selci 84/G*
    mail@vinoroma.com
  • An Afternoon with Arianna Occhipinti

    An Afternoon with Arianna Occhipinti

    I met inspirational, natural wine maker, Arianna Occhipinti for the first time at Sicilia en primeur 2011. Arianna and her wine are the new and the old Sicily, strong, surprising, rooted in tradition with an eye toward the future. They reflect the land of Vittoria and the region of Ragusa. Arianna’s energy is infectious, her love for the vines deep as is her belief in letting wine express itself at every turn.

    I was thrilled when she agreed to spend an afternoon with me at Azienda Agricola Arianna Occhipinti. She is passionate, extremely generous and down to earth. Below are the highlights from our interview. Enjoy!

    Why did you decide to dedicate your life to the vines? 

    It happened a bit by chance. My first exposure to the world of wine was attending wine events with my Uncle Giusto. My interest grew from there. At university, I realized my true passion was wine making and oenology, it suits my character, the part that craves contact with nature. I love the side of wine that speaks of a territory and its history, the history of one piece of land. Wine making nourishes this part of myself.

    When did you start to make wine and what was your initial goal?

    I was 21. Selling wine was not essential to me at the beginning. I wanted to capture the essence of Vittoria through wine. I believed in Frappato and Nero d’Avola from Vittoria. Respecting the plants was essential for me so I used organic and biodynamic agricultural methods. I wanted to allow complete expression of the grape and wine without chemical intervention. For this reason, in 2004, I started with one hectare around my house, half Frappato, half Nero d’Avola – 2,000 bottles of each. 

    Describe how your wines express your character.

    Wines are without doubt an expression of the character of the wine maker. If two different people make wine from the same vineyards, they will do it in a different manner expressing their individuality, their interpretation. My wines are an expression of a this territory and my point of view. Fundamentally, Vittoria is a place where wines have always been somewhat diverse, fresh, elegant  and less alcoholic than other comparable wines. I hope my wine gives a sensation of tasting Vittoria, in particular “il Fossa di Lupo”, my farm, of the freshness of this land.

    You feel strongly about not using substances to alter wine. Can you talk a bit about this?

    I feel very strongly about appreciating what a grape gives naturally. I shouldn’t manipulate it using fertilizers. That would mean changing the characteristics to be something different than that of the land. If one year a vineyard gives me certain characteristics it’s meant to be and I respect it.  It shouldn’t be altered by the hands of men. It’s the same in the cellars. If one vintage has more acidity, I don’t change it, I don’t add tannins, this doesn’t interest me. 2008 was warmer than 2009 so the 2009 Frappato and Nero d’Avola express more freshness and minerality in comparison. I value the biodiversity of the vineyard. It’s exactly this that excites me and interests me. Each year expresses the traits of that year, each year is unique.  

    Do you have a favorite?

    No, people say that my favorite is Frappato because my eyes light up when it’s mentioned. It may be because Frappato is not as well known as Nero d’Avola. I admire it, it’s the grape that made me fall in love with this work. It was the idea of the grape itself. I saw it like many other important grapes, like Pinot Noir or Nebbiolo. I believe that there is always one thing that attracts a person to this craft and for me it was the frappato grape.

    What are your future plans for Occhipinti?

    An immediate goal is to build a new wine cellar. As for longer term, I want to keep doing what I’m doing, I’d like to see Occhipinti become even more rooted in this territory. Improvements come with time and experience, with analysis, with knowing a place. When I started I was lucky to make good wine right away but my knowledge of Vittoria wasn’t what it is today and in 10 years it will be different that it is today.

    Beyond Occhipinti, I care about Vittoria. One day I’d love to overhear someone tasting wine say this is a Frappato or a Nero d’Avola from Vittoria. It’s my greatest desire that wine drinkers identify this territory through its wine.

    Occhipinti has grown tremendously since 2004. Will you put a ceiling on this growth?

    If it’s possible to grow while maintaining the same characteristics, great, otherwise, I’ve got to say that I’m already happy with things as they stand. At this moment, I’m making approximately 75,000 bottles and probably won’t surpass 100,000 bottles.

    What do you find most rewarding about being a winemaker?

    I believe the most rewarding thing is to leave a mark on history through your vineyards, to become a significant part of history. In my case, Occhipinti is still very young but with constancy, work, time, with the fact that you’re here, the fact that often you don’t give up, you leave your mark. A business continues with the passing of time.

    Lastly, how often are tours and wine tastings scheduled at Occhipinti?

    At this point by request only in English and Italian. I’m happy to say that people come from all over the world to visit Vittoria and often to visit Occhipinti. It brings me great joy to meet wine lovers and give them a tour of the vineyards and wine cellars. I love tasting and discussing my wines with others.

    Azienda Agricola Arianna Occhipinti
    SP68 Vittoria-Pedalino Km 5,4
    info@agricolaocchipinti.it
     Tel. +39.333 6360316
  • “Sparkling Saturdays” at Vino Roma

    “Sparkling Saturdays” at Vino Roma

    Yesterday I attended “Sparkling Saturdays” led by Hande Leimer, co-founder of Vino Roma. I met Hande recently and can objectively say she is one of most talented wine educators whom I know in Rome. I truly enjoyed the way she presented each bubbly. What a perfect start to a Saturday evening!

    We tasted 5 sparkling wines from two Italian regions, Veneto and Lombardia. Hande explained the method used to produce each in simple terms. She had a group with diverse levels of knowledge and skillfully answered each of our questions. Distinct characteristics allowed us to compare and contrast throughout the 2 hour event.

    After each glass was poured, Hande instructed as to observe, noting the consistency and size of the bubbles. Second, smell, we talked about what aromas were prevalent. Third, taste and fourth, food pairings which was the most fun part for me.

    The first was Colli Trevigiani IGT , Metodo Rurale 2010 by Fratelli Cosmo. The scent of apple sauce filled my nostrils. It was acidic and tart. Given its acidity, Hande suggested a fried starter such as carciofi alla giudia.

    Next was Asolo Prosecco DOCG Sup, Asolo Prosecco Extra Dry by Belecasel. It was aromatic with hints of apricot. More balanced and sweeter than the first, it would be gorgeous with fried soft-shell crab.

    Conegliano Valdobbiadene, S.C. 1931 2009 by Bellenda followed.  The small fine bubbles were persistent and the nose intense and earthy. It pairs well with rabbit, duck or prosciutto. Next, Franciacorta DOCG, Franciacorta Pas Dosé 2006 by Il Mosnel. There was a soft buttery smell. Pappardelle with porcini mushrooms or ravioli with a sage and butter sauce are two dishes to be enjoyed with this wine.

    We ended with Franciacorta DOCG,  Rosé 2007 by Ferghettina. The aroma was blackberries and raspberries. Saltimbocca alla Romana (veal, prosciutto and sage) is a plate to try with this rosé.

    After sipping on the final wine, Hande took us on a tour of her impressive wine cellar. It was a fabulous ending to the tasting.  

    Vino Roma 
    Via In Selci 84/G
    email: mail@vinoroma.com
    cell phone for last minute bookings (+39)328.4874497
  • Sicilia en Primeur 2011 – Tastings & Reflections

    Sicilia en Primeur 2011 – Tastings & Reflections

    I spent four days at the Sicilia en Primeur 2011, tasting Sicilian wine and meeting wine producers. It was an intense, informative and fun event. I visited the Terre Sciane and Pantelleria group of wine producers for two days before arriving at the Donnafugata Resort near Ragusa where we tasted wines for two days. There was the option to taste each wine with the producers. This was fantastic for me because I believe to truly know a wine you must know the personalities of the producers and how they work. There was also the opportunity to taste wines with an AIS sommelier instead of the wine maker.

    I opted for tasting at the producers’ tables where I had the chance to hear each cantina’s story straight from the producers. By the end of the event, I tasted more than 100 wines. The diversity of the territory and the wine makers personalities shine through each glass. I walked away with a growing admiration and love of Sicily, its wines and the pioneers who are transforming the landscape of Sicilian wines.

    I’ll be adding these to my wine list! Enjoy…

    Occhipinti – Il Frappato 2008

    Arianna Occhipinti is the 20-something year old behind these extraordinary wines and vineyard. An artisan producer, her wines are moving. Arianna’s love for the land and hands-on approach to winemaking are captivating. The small vineyard is located in Vittoria in the region of Ragusa. Il Frappato, IGT 2008, is ruby red in color with scents and flavors of red berries and green tea. Fresh and delicate, this wine left me wanting to taste and re-taste it time and time again.

    Il Frappato 2008 – Arianna Occhipinti

    Centopassi – Catarratto Terre Rosse di Giabbascio 2010

     

     

     

    Centopassi wines

     

     

    Centopassi is the winemaking division started in 2002 by two social cooperatives of Libera Terra on 60 hectares of land confiscated from the “Cosa Nostra” around the outskirts of Palermo and Corleone. This new generation of inspirational wine producers are finding ways to give back to both the land and people of Sicily by producing high quality organic wine. All of their wines are interesting. The Catarratto, IGT 2010, comes from the Giabbascio vineyard situated near Palermo at 400 meters above sea level. It is smooth and fresh with floral and tropical fruit notes – a must try!

    Newly planted vineyard at Centopassi
    Centopassi – newly planted vineyard

    Graci di Alberto Aiello Graci – Quota 600 Rosso 2008

    Graci focuses on the traditional varieties of nerello mascalese, nerello cappuccio, carricante and catarratto indigenous to Mount Etna. The wines reflect the terroir, bold and beautiful. The Quota 600 Rosso, Etna Rosso DOC is elegant and balanced with an intense nose and flavor of dark red fruits.

    COS – Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico 2008

    Giusto Occhipinti and Titta Cilia have been making wine together since 1980. The duo can be credited with putting cerasuola di vittoria back on the map. Renowned for aging wines in terra-cotta amphorae, this DOCG nero d’avola-frappato blend is evocative, earthy and full bodied.

    Donnafugata – Ben Ryé 2008

    Donnafugata vineyard – Pantelleria

    Donnafugata is one of the family run vineyards that painted the story of Sicilan wine and Josè Rallo is the face and voice of the cantina; her passion, radiance and determination are reflected in the array of Donnafugata wines. The Ben Ryé 2008, DOC Passito from Pantelleria has a stand up personality and richness. Amber in color with strong scents of apricot, peaches and honey, this dessert wine pairs well with aged cheese and cannoli.

    Josè Rallo of Donnafugata
    Josè Rallo of Donnafugata

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