After KBT and I grazed our way through the Ortigia market, we sped off to our lunch reservation at Sicilia in Tavola.
We started with polpette di pesce neonata grigliate (grilled whitebait patties). The fluffy clouds were laced with peppery parsley, parmesan and topped with a splash of lemon juice. They were cooked perfectly. (Note: I learned yesterday that there is an EU-wide fishing ban on neonata due to overfishing. I will not be ordering neonata anytime soon and encourage others to do the same).
We chose gnocchi con ricci di mare e pistacchio di Bronte (gnocchi with sea urchin and chopped pistachio nuts) and spaghetti mare con granella di mandorle (spaghetti with mixed seafood and grated almonds) for our first courses.
In Sicily, I search out ricci di mare in any form I can get my hands on. Creamy and bright, it tastes and speaks of the sea. The plump potato pillows in a light fish sauce topped with coral bits and toasted green gems were luscious.
Spaghetti mixed with tender shrimp and chunks of fish was complimented by sweet grated almonds.
Due to a food coma, we stopped eating after the first course. The warm service, simple décor and range of fresh seafood based pasta dishes make for a winning recipe. I recommend making a reservation.
Sicilia in Tavola
via Cavour, 28 Siracusa
Tel. +39 392 4610889
I can’t spend enough time in Sicily. I am a bit bias given two of my grandparents were born near Napoli and the other two near 
The cool sea air of the nearby fishing port engulfed us as we walked to Ortigia. The small island of Ortigia is the historical heart of the city and it’s where you’ll find the market located on Via De Benedictis and the surrounding streets.
A seemingly endless spread of mussels, calamari and swordfish is displayed beside piles of cheese, spices and salami. Cleavers crash down on white cutting boards, vendors shout and shoppers breeze by; I was mesmerized.
Every five steps we stopped to munch on Sicilian snacks. Buttery raw shrimp, fresh ricotta and nuts were on our hit list. Some of the best pistachios I’ve ever tasted are from Bronte. I meant to stop myself after I bought the first pound of these lustrous green gems but before I knew it, I had a two pounds of pistachios, two bags of Avola almonds and a sack of sun-dried tomatoes in tow.
Next stop…Andrea Borderi’s shop. Tables of pear-shaped smoked 
Andrea offered us a slice of peppery sheeps’ cheese and his special tricotta (ricotta cooked three times) drizzled with olive oil and oregano over thin crisp bread. The velvety milky bite sprinkled with perfumed green specks vanished quickly in our mouths.
Out of the corner of my eye, I spotted rectangular blocks of aged cheese –