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Siracusa – GT Food & Travel
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Tag: Siracusa

  • Sicily Part 1 – 5 Cherished Memories

    Sicily Part 1 – 5 Cherished Memories

    This is part 1 of a 3 part post of my favorite memories from a recent trip to Sicily. Anyone who has met me knows that I am a bit obsessed with Sicily. My Sicily obsession has grown since the death of my Sicilian grandmother Maria in 2003. I am thankful to her for sharing her memories of Sicily. I admire her sarcasm, stubbornness and strength. She was a testarda (stubborn person) and for that reason I proudly hold my Italian passport. She was my last grandparent to immigrate to Boston allowing her to retain her Italian citizenship.fishermanSince 2003, I’ve visited Sicily countless times. Initially I searched for my roots to understand more about myself, my family and my attraction to the island. Every trip brought a new adventure from midnight fishing off the Aeolian Islands to walking the vineyards of Pantelleria. I fell in love with the energy, the smell, the tastes, I fell in love with the food, the wine and the people. When I received a call from the most difficult clients asking me to plan a trip of a lifetime to Sicily for them, I knew I was up for the challenge. The group was my mom, dad and three cousins. DSC_0058It may seem obvious that all clients want their vacation to be a trip of a lifetime. Understanding what a client envisions is the first step. My clients (family) wanted to stay in a villa near Siracusa with a pool, garden and outdoor kitchen and direct access to the sea. They wanted to relax, cook and most of all spend time together creating unforgettable memories.

    My 5 most cherished memories from this very special trip of a lifetime are…

    1. Stealing an hour with mom on Mother’s Day for a plate Sicilian cheese, semi-sundried tomatoes, eggplant parmesan and wine at Gusto dei Sapori Smarriti in Ortigia. cheeseplatemom
    2. An indulgent breakfast  at Caffé Sicilia in the city of Noto which is a UNESCO Heritage site. Cannoli, brioche, granita and cappuccino were exactly the sugar and caffeine jolt required to kick off a day of sightseeing.  cannolicaffesicilia
    3. Leading my family on a tour of the Ortigia food market  to buy fish, vegetables and bread for an evening BBQ.fishmarketortigia
    4. Spending a morning at I Vigneri vineyards on Etna with the Etna Wine Lab.20140515-familywEtna
    5. A farewell swim at the ramp of our Think Sicily villa rental. Despite living in Italy for more than 7 years, I still have New England blood which means I’ll jump in the sea in May despite chilly temps! That’s Mom and me.

    swimsiracusa

     

    to be continued…Sicily Part 2 – On Etna with The Etna Wine Lab & I Vigneri

  • Lunch in Siracusa – Sicilia in Tavola

    Lunch in Siracusa – Sicilia in Tavola

    After KBT and I grazed our way through the Ortigia market, we sped off to our lunch reservation at Sicilia in Tavola.

    We started with polpette di pesce neonata grigliate (grilled whitebait patties). The fluffy clouds were laced with peppery parsley, parmesan and topped with a splash of lemon juice. They were cooked perfectly. (Note: I learned yesterday that there is an EU-wide fishing ban on neonata due to overfishing. I will not be ordering neonata anytime soon and encourage others to do the same).

    We chose gnocchi con ricci di mare e pistacchio di Bronte (gnocchi with sea urchin and chopped pistachio nuts) and spaghetti mare con granella di mandorle (spaghetti with mixed seafood and grated almonds) for our first courses.

    In Sicily, I search out ricci di mare in any form I can get my hands on. Creamy and bright, it tastes and speaks of the sea. The plump potato pillows in a light fish sauce topped with coral bits and toasted green gems were luscious.

    Spaghetti mixed with tender shrimp and chunks of fish was complimented by sweet grated almonds.

    Due to a food coma, we stopped eating after the first course.  The warm service, simple décor and range of fresh seafood based pasta dishes make for a winning recipe. I recommend making a reservation.

    Sicilia in Tavola
    via Cavour, 28 Siracusa
    Tel. +39 392 4610889
  • Eating our way through the Ortigia Market – Siracusa, Sicily

    Eating our way through the Ortigia Market – Siracusa, Sicily

    I can’t spend enough time in Sicily. I am a bit bias given two of my grandparents were born near Napoli and the other two near Siracusa (Syracuse)…so when my friend, KBT, and I squeezed in a food crawl in Siracusa I was elated.

    The cool sea air of the nearby fishing port engulfed us as we walked to Ortigia. The small island of Ortigia is the historical heart of the city and it’s where you’ll find the market located on Via De Benedictis and the surrounding streets.

    A seemingly endless spread of mussels, calamari and swordfish is displayed beside piles of cheese, spices and salami. Cleavers crash down on white cutting boards, vendors shout and shoppers breeze by; I was mesmerized.

    Every five steps we stopped to munch on Sicilian snacks. Buttery raw shrimp, fresh ricotta and nuts were on our hit list. Some of the best pistachios I’ve ever tasted are from Bronte. I meant to stop myself after I bought the first pound of these lustrous green gems but before I knew it, I had a two pounds of pistachios, two bags of Avola almonds and a sack of sun-dried tomatoes in tow.

    Next stop…Andrea Borderi’s shop. Tables of pear-shaped smoked provola, wheels of pecorino and small rounds of ricotta salata (lightly salted milk curd that is pressed and dried; it is nutty and mild tasting) were placed beside cases of braided mozzarella.

    Andrea offered us a slice of peppery sheeps’ cheese and his special tricotta (ricotta cooked three times) drizzled with olive oil and oregano over thin crisp bread. The velvety milky bite sprinkled with perfumed green specks vanished quickly in our mouths.

    Out of the corner of my eye, I spotted rectangular blocks of aged cheese – Ragusano. This was the PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) cheese that I was hoping to find; a specialty from this region, it is made with whole milk from Modicana cows which are reared in the province of Ragusa.

    Andrea eagerly offered us a taste. As he carved away at the cracked golden-yellow chunk, it appeared as if it would crumble under the weight of the knife. He handed us a generous unbroken piece. It was piquant like aged provolone and moist with oil. I added two pounds of vacuum sealed perfection to my expanding baggage and we were on our way. We were late for our lunch reservation but that’s a tale for another day.

     
    Borderi Shop
    Via De Benedictis, n. 6
    Ortigia Market, Siracusa



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