I feel a deep connection to Sicily, her people, land, food and wine. It started with my grandparents, Maria and Sebastiano, who grew up near Siracusa. It grows each time I visit.
I recently spent a week at San Vito Lo Capo. I couldn’t wait to buy, cook and eat local seafood. First stop, Pescheria Alfonso, where I met Alfonso Battaglia, the owner, heart and smile behind the counter.
A rainbow of octopus, shrimp and red mullet was displayed. Speckled lobsters wriggled. Clams launched water into the air. I wanted to taste everything.
They are open 7 days a week and packed with customers. Every morning we bought fish here. We talked with Alfonso and his brother Giuseppe about the changing landscape of the fishing industry, exchanged recipes and laughed a lot.
The Battaglia brothers opened the pescheria 3 years ago. Not surprisingly, they come from a family of fishermen and fish sellers. Previously, Alfonso sold fish from a street cart near the local seaside.
At the end of the week, we sadly said goodbye to our new friends. We were depressed knowing that it would be a long time before we enjoyed such amazing, gorgeous, fresh fish. Luckily, Alfonso sent us away with one of his specialities, delicately marinated anchovies. I can’t wait to return next summer.
tel: 0923 972056
It’s hot as #@! in Rome. All I can think about is my recent escape to San Vito Lo Capo, Sicily. Home to crystal clear water, white sandy beaches and stunning mountains, it is the birthplace of the caldo freddo (hot cold) dessert.
Caldo freddo is an extravaganza of sponge cake soaked in liquor, gelato (italian ice cream) and whipped cream covered in hot dark chocolate sauce served in a terra cotta bowl. I ordered the classic version packed with gelato al caffè (coffee ice cream) but choose any gelato flavor you like. The velvety chocolate topping slowly melted through the layers of whipped cream and gelato to the rum soaked cake base. Sigh, I’d love to dig into one today, cool off with a swim and grab a seaside aperitif but that will have to wait until next summer.