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family recipe – GT Food & Travel
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Tag: family recipe

  • Buccellati Sicilian Christmas Fig Cookies

    Buccellati Sicilian Christmas Fig Cookies

    In December, holiday breads and desserts flood bakery shelves. Panettone may be the most popular Italian pastry served during the holiday season but I prefer homemade Christmas cookies especially nutty roccocò, chocolate covered mostaccioli and buccellati (Sicilian fig-filled cookies). Baked in a wreath ring or as cookies, the combination of figs, dates, nuts, raisins and sometimes candied fruits is simply delicious.

    buccellati

    In the past, baked goods packed with dried fruits popped up around harvest time as cooler temperatures approached. Filled with figs, buccellati represented a successful and prosperous harvest. Traditionally buccellati appeared at family celebrations including weddings and christenings. Today, despite pastry chefs making it year round, buccellati are linked to Christmas festivities.

    I cherish and miss listening to Christmas tunes while baking and eating cookies with mom in the days leading up to December 25. She will be baking away in Boston and I’ll do the same in Rome. There is no single recipe for these Christmas delights. Some recipes use dessert wine. All recipes use nuts, mostly almonds. Mom uses her plum jam.

    Ingredients (5 dozen cookies)

    Ingredients for the dough

    • 4 cups flour
    • 1/2 cup sugar
    • 1/2 cup
    • 1 stick and 1 ounce of butter
    • 2 large eggs
    • 1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
    • 1 tablespoon baking powder (in Sicily bakers’ ammonia or hartshorn is often used. If you find it, it will leave the cookies more crisp).

    Ingredients for the filling

    • 1/2 cup home made or high quality jam (we use black plum jam but choose your favorite, strawberry and cherry work well too)
    • 6 ounces dried figs
    • 3/4 cup of vino cotto
    • 2 tablespoons pistachios
    • 2 tablespoons almonds
    • 1/2 cup walnuts

    Ingredients for the icing

    • 1 cup powdered sugar
    • juice of 1 to 2 lemons
    • pistacchio granules for decorating

    The filling

    Finely chop the dried figs. Put the figs in a saucepan. Chop the nuts by hand or with a food processor.figs2 Add the jam, vino cotto and nuts (pistachios, almonds, walnuts). Stir frequently over low heat until the mixture thickens, about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat. Let the mixture cool to room temperature.plum_jamPreheat the oven to 350° F before making the dough.

     The dough

    Pile the flour in a mound on a marble or wooden surface. Make a well in the center of the mound. Add the sugar, butter, eggs, vanilla and baking powder or ammonium bicarbonate if you’re using it to the well. Mix with your hands incorporating the flour into the well little by little, until the dough forms. If the dough is too dry add a tablespoon of milk moisten it. The dough should be easy to work with and not too sticky.buccellati_doughDivide the dough into quarters. Roll one quarter of the dough into a rectangle. The dough should be about 1/4 inch thick. Use a spoon to spread the filling along the bottom third of the dough. buccellati_fillingFold the bottom over the filling. Fold the top over, enclosing the filling within the dough. It will look like a log. Turn the log over (seam-side down) and press gently to flatten it. Cut into 2-3 inch pieces. Gently shape each cookie into a moon shape. buccellati_bakingMake 3 slits on the rounded side of each buccellato. Place the cookies on a unlined baking sheet. Repeat until dough and filling are finished.

    Bake at 350°F for approximately 25 minutes, until golden brown. Place cookies on a rack to cool.

    The icing

    Place pistachios in a food processor and pulse or chop by hand. pistacchio

    In a small bowl, combine the powdered sugar with the juice from 1 – 2 lemons. Mix until smooth. When the cookies are cool, brush with the icing and sprinkle with pistachio granules. I ice one-half of the cookies and leave the others unfrosted. Mix it up. buccellati1

    Happy Holidays!

  • Bean-Potato Stew from Ma’s Kitchen

    Bean-Potato Stew from Ma’s Kitchen

    It’s lovely, how I still dream of her. I’m happy to meet Ma in my dreams and celery cut in uniform miniscule squares on a well-worn wooden board and any kitchen knife. Her hands were always manicured but she never wore nail polish. Her nail length was uniform too. Like the cutting board, her hands are worn from a lifetime of cooking, caring and chopping. Her hands tell many stories with each fine line. Ma wears the house coat I like best. It’s white with blue and yellow daisies. The buttons are a lucid shiny celeste. Piles of celery, a rainbow of forest and pastel green and white, lay waiting. The leaves are peppery and flat. She insisted in uniformity in the kitchen that is. Crunch, the knife moves through each stalk, mechanical movements which are uniform too, dice and move to the side.MA

    In December, Mom and I walked into Roberto’s, our neighborhood fruit and vegetable shop, where I happened over to a mound of pink pods speckled with white. Art by nature; they were the last borlotti beans of the season. Mom held open a brown paper bag and I scooped handfuls of pods into it. We grabbed a soil dusted bunch of celery with plenty of leaves. We never stop for an instant to question why Ma cooked with certain ingredients, shopped here or there and bought celery with lots of peppery leaves. It just was.celery

    Into the kitchen we go. I’m less patient and certainly not uniform like Ma when it comes to dicing, mincing and slicing. I like chunky bits of celery. Split, crunch, crack, cut, I’m in her kitchen chopping on her cutting board. There she is. Shuck the beans, peel and dice the potatoes, put them in a dutch oven pan with EVOO and plenty of oregano. Cover with water and simmer until cooked. Serve with crusty bread.beanspotatoes

    Measurements are hard with Ma’s recipes. If the beans are in the shell, use 3 to 4 pounds. If shelled use a pound. Peel and dice 4 medium size potatoes, add as much diced celery as you like, plenty of celery leaves and oregano and extra virgin olive oil.

  • 2 Days of Eating in NYC…the Highlights & Lowlights

    2 Days of Eating in NYC…the Highlights & Lowlights

    NYC was my home for 7 years.  Every time I visit the U.S., I hop on the Boston-NYC Chinatown bus to visit friends, breathe in the city and eat.  I was recently in NYC for a two day trip.  Here are some food highlights and lowlights of my trip:

    Momofuku Noodle Bar

    The first of David Chang’s growing empire, I always find time to stop by for a meal. I’ve eaten just about everything on the menu. This time I decided to eat light and had the shitake buns to start. Layers of grilled mushrooms, crisp cucumbers, hoisin and scallions stuffed into fluffy pockets of starchy goodness are outrageous. I moved on to the smoked brisket with Korean rice cakes, Tuscan kale and fried egg. Yellow liquid oozed over the heap of tender meat, chewy rice pillows and hearty kale. The rich and sweet combination is exquisite.

    First time vistors, don’t miss the pork buns and momofuku ramen (pork belly, pork shoulder, poached egg).

    Cost: Moderate

    171 1st Ave

    Nicky’s Vietnamese Sandwiches

    There’s no shortage of Vietamese Sandwich shops in Manhattan. I nipped in for a quick bite at Nicky’s in the East Village and ordered the pork chop sandwich and Vietnamese iced coffee. Five minutes later, a crusty toasted baguette with grilled sliced meat, pickled carrots, cucumber, cilantro and mayo arrived at my table. Spicy sauce, tender pork, and bright coriander compliment the tangy crunchy vegetables; fresh, fast and satisfying.

    If you’re not a fan of sandwiches, try the summer rolls and grilled pork chop over rice.

    Cost: Inexpensive

    150 East 2nd St; 212-388-1088

    Family Recipe

    Family Recipe opened its doors in September. Chef /Owner Akiko Thurnauer offers fresh, seasonal dishes in a sleek modern atmosphere.

    The heritage pork belly buns were a divine appetizer, moist and succulent. We ordered the lemon grass arctic char wrapped with cedar wood and slow-cooked grass fed short ribs as our main plates. The fish was perfectly cooked but was bland. The ribs were tough and chewy. They were served in a hot cast iron bowl full of nutty, satiating sticky, multi grain rice.

    I had high hopes for this Lower East Side, Japanese fusion restaurant. Unfortunately, it fell short of my expectations.

    Cost: Moderate

    231 Eldrige Street; 212 529 3133

     

     

     


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