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artisan – GT Food & Travel
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Tag: artisan

  • Bread, flatbread & crepes at Dall’Antò

    Bread, flatbread & crepes at Dall’Antò

    baccalamantecato1I’m often asked what is Dall’Antò? A good answer may be a venue where you can sit at a communal table and spend hours leafing through a library of gastronomic treasures while eating traditional flatbread, crepes and roasted vegetables OR a shop where you can enjoy a glass of wine with baccalà mantecato (salt cod mousse) sandwiched between farinata (baked chickpea flour flatbread) OR an eatery where you can nosh on honey and hazelnut biscotti with a caffé alla napoletana OR why not all three?dallantoroastedvegLast week, I spent the afternoon with Antonio Menconi, Dall’Antò co-founder, learning more about the restaurant/library/eatery.

    GT: Why did you open Dall’Antò?

    AM: It is a business/marketing project backed by a political vision. We refer to as ADA, arte degli altri.

    GT: Can you tell me more?

    AM: More often than not the ingredients used by restaurants to create each dish are hidden even if the initial ingredients are stellar. It’s about the chef. We believe in the opposite. We source our flour, olive oil, cheese, etc from people who we are artists/artisans. They are small producers who have the need for someone to market and explain the quality of their products to the public. Our goal is to do just that by introducing our customers to the small producers, championing them, their work and their passion. Dall’Antò uses cheese from Beppe e I Suoi Formaggi, olive oil from Colli Etruschi, and flour and chickpeas from Poggi. They are all artists.dallantobackroom

    GT: What are the three must-eat dishes for a first time visitor to Dall’Antò?

    AM: Definitely farinata (baked chickpea flour flatbread and extra virgin olive oil), the neccio di castagne (chestnut flour crepe), and the rotolo di pane carasau (traditional Sardinian flatbread made from durum wheat which is rolled and filled with cheese) because they are three diverse and representative dishes of simple food.dallantofarinata

    GT: Which version of farinata do you recommend?

    AM: Start with a slice of plain farinata. Taste the ingredients that make up this basic flat bread, chickpeas from Poggi and Colli Etruschi olive oil, and then move on to a slice of farinata with Capperi (capers) di Selargius (Sardegna). It’s about the ingredients.

    GT: I love the melding of Sardinian briny air, delicate fruity oil, and sweet legumes. dallantocapers

    GT: What filling is best for neccio di castagne?

    AM: Goat’s milk or sheep’s milk ricotta, or stracchino. Our cheese is made by Beppe of Beppe e I Suoi Formaggi in the regions of Piedmont, Tuscany and Lazio while the DOP chestnut flour is from Carrara and Viterbo. The quality of most chestnut flour available in supermarkets is poor. Producing chestnut flour is a long and laborious process. The chestnuts need to be dried out and the outer shell and inner husk must be completely removed. If not you’re left with an astringent tasting flour.

    GT: Can you tell me about the rotolo di pane carasau?

    AM: Pane Carasau is a crisp delicate flatbread from Sardegna. It’s placed in warm water, filled with soft cheese, rolled and cooked until the outside becomes golden brown and crispy.dallantorotolo

    GT: It’s a warm and savory snack that is perfect for a cold February day in Rome. If you’re in a rush grab one to go. And I never miss the baccalà mantecato, foccacia, biscotti and coffee.dallantofocaccia

    If you don’t have a chance to stop at Dall’Antò, Antonio also sources the traditional Italian breads at Beppe e I Suoi Formaggi and Volpetti.

    Address: Via Madonna dei Monti 16; telephone +39.06.6780712.

    Open Tuesday through Saturday from 12:00 to 23:00 and Sundays from 12:00 to 15:00. Closed Mondays.

  • 3 Cheeses to Taste at Beppe e I Suoi Formaggi

    3 Cheeses to Taste at Beppe e I Suoi Formaggi

    IMG_3092

    Since arriving in Rome, I’ve had to work hard to break out of my all too-comfortable college dining habits:  a lazy dinner of ramen after a long day of classes, squeezing a group of 10 friends around a table at the local pub and ordering five plates of nachos, or (after six hours of field study and lectures) collapsing into chairs at the pizzeria nearest the Forum, disregarding the fact that we know it’s probably one of Rome’s notorious “tourist traps.”

    It’s been a challenge, but every week I force myself to seek out new and exciting dining experiences. And isn’t that the reason food lovers (or anyone for that matter) come to Italy anyway? We want to experience one of the most evolved culinary traditions in the world!

    Beppe e I Suoi Formaggi, or as Romans fondly call it, “Beppe,” is just such a place – a refreshingly authentic Italian culinary experience. All of the cheeses offered in the shop are made by the family of Giuseppe Giovale, the owner of the shop and fourth generation cheese maker from Piedmont. The cheeses are hand-crafted using milk from goats, sheep, and cows that the family itself owns. The Giovale family farm is located in the rolling foothills of Italy’s Piedmont region.

    IMG_3094

    At their store in central Rome, you can have a cheese and wine tasting, sit down for a meal made from seasonal ingredients, or simply buy a hunk of cheese and some prosciutto wrapped up to go. Beppe’s is a little slice of the pastoral dream nestled in the heart of the Eternal City, and the proof is in the pudding! Or rather, the cheese.

    Together with Beppe, we compiled the following list of three must-try cheeses for any first time visitor to the shop!

    1) Giallina – A sweeter cousin of Parmesan, Giallina is a hard cheese made from 100% cow’s milk, and boiled between 30˚-60˚C (a.k.a. semi-pasteurized). The Giallina has larger grains than Parmesan, giving it a different texture. It has all the salty nuttiness of Parmesan, but is sweeter, making it perfectly palatable for a tasting.

    Giallina - sweet, nutty, and granular

    2) Robiola Mista – The Robiola Mista is a soft cheese made from goat and sheep’s milk. It’s aged about 30 days to when it reaches its peak of flavor, and is ideally eaten within a week of its maturation. The flavor can vary, based on when the goats and sheep are milked; the slice of Robiola Mista that we tried in September was herbaceous, since the milk had been gathered during the summer, when the goats and sheep were grazing on fresh summer grass and herbs.

    robiola mista

    3) Erborinato Caprino – Lastly a must for blue cheese fans is this goat’s milk blue with gorgeous flavor. The deep blue-green mold that flecks the cheese has an astonishing effect on the overall taste, turning it earthy, pungent, and tingly. It is described as speziato, which translates to spicy – as in a “spice” such as cardamom – full of pungency and strong flavor. This particular cheese is aged at least 90 days.

    Erborinato Caprino – spicy, pungent, and earthy.

    These are just a few of the many varieties of cheese that Beppe offers. And you don’t have to stick to the list either! Most of the fun at Beppe’s lies in trying whatever is fresh and new for the season. No two cheeses are the same, making a tasting at Beppe’s a true gastronomic adventure.

    For a cheese and wine tasting at Beppe’s, contact us!


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