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Sicily – Page 3 – GT Food & Travel
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GT Food & Travel

Category: Sicily

The Etna Wine Buzz

Despite the looming presence of Europe’s highest active volcano and the labor-intensive terraced vineyards, Etna currently is one of Italy’s most exciting wine regions. Etna is not only drawing attention to Sicily but is in great company with some of the best wines in the world. It’s no wonder that young Sicilian winemakers are making a stake on Etna, embracing agriculture and quality wine production over quantity. They are breathing life and personality into distinctive Etna wines.

So why all the buzz about Etna? It’s impossible to point to any one factor. Likely it’s the volcanic soil and extraordinary climate but also an increased love and interest in the native grape varieties that have existed on Etna’s terraced vineyards for centuries. Whatever the reason may be, Etna wines appeal to wine novices and connoisseurs alike.

What can you expect from Etna wines? Continue reading….

April 3, 2015
Sicily Part 3 – Etna with The Etna Wine Lab

This is part 3 of a 3 part post of my favorite memories from my last trip to Sicily. You’ll find Part 2 here.

We sped off leaving I Vigneri in the distance…two more vineyards to visit. I was floating on cloud 9…for the rest of the day I watched my family digest a small piece of Etna. While we wandered amongst the alberello vines in the morning, the afternoon brought us indoors to the retired wine making facilities of Feudo Vagliasindi and the modern tasting room at Planeta. A complete contrast to I Vigneri, Feudo Vagliasindi is a hotel and farm that produces organic Etna Rosso wine and olive oil. Feudo Vagliasindi is also home to a palmento, a traditional stone structure where wine was made, it often has an area for foot pressing of the grapes, permanent stone containers and barrels for aging. With the arrival of modern wine making technology and strict hygienic standards, the use of palmenti is banned by European law. Although no longer in use many of these buildings still exist in Sicily. Valeria explained in simple terms how it was utilized. Harvested grapes were transported quickly from the vineyards and were carried in through the windows beside the basket press (pictured below).

All eyes moved from the press to the wooden beam and enormous screw hovering above us. The screw would have rotated the stone block pressing every last precious drop of juice from the grape skins. No room for waste.

In the adjacent room 100+ liter chestnut barrels that date back to the 19th century stand. They too played an important role in the palmento. After grapes were crushed the juice flowed first to stone tanks to ferment and then to this level where it was transferred to the chestnut barrels.

After our historic wine making lesson, we tasted Feudo Vagliasindi’s Etna Rosso 2012. It had nice acidity, red-fruit flavors and expressive tannins, a straightforward wine. I look forward to tasting it in a few years time. Our last visit was at Planeta, a new comer to Etna but no stranger to Sicilian wine production. The Hospitality Manager, Vera Russo greeted us warmly. As we toured Planeta’s state of the art facilities, Vera explained the modern wine making process giving us a chance to compare and contrast how wine was made in the palmento and how it is made today at Planeta. Planeta’s renovated palmento serves as a showroom for the complete line of Planeta’s wine.

We tasted two wines from Etna and 3 others. Vera described each wine to the group and answered all of our questions. I was most interested in tasting Eruzione 1614 Carricante and Eruzione 1614 Nerello Mascalese. The wines spoke of a tame Etna, easy drinking and clean. Everyone at the table enjoyed the tasting.

The tour was perfect for our group. It combined history, food and wine tastings, the people behind the wine, trends and most importantly we had a blast!

Are you an Etna wine lover like me? Do you have a favorite Etna wine?

January 9, 2015
Sicily Part 2 – The Etna Wine Lab & I Vigneri

This is part 2 of a 3 part post of my favorite memories from my last trip to Sicily. You can find Part 1 here.

As I walked between the alberello vines at 1200 meters my heart raced like a child waiting to jump out of bed on Christmas morning. It’s no secret that I love natural wine makers. I’ve wanted to visit I Vigneri on Etna for years and I was finally there.Let me take a step back. I met the founders of The Etna Wine Lab, Benjamin Spencer and Valeria Carastro, at the Digital Wine Communications Conference in 2013. Their line up of Etna wine producers ranged from traditional vineyards like Scirto to the historic Benanti. As I tasted and talked with Ben and Valeria, I was transported to Etna. The unique wines like their tours reminded me of a quote on The Etna Wine Lab Website. “We create memorable excursions focused on the history, traditions, and contemporary trends found on the mountain.” They did just that for my family.

Our full day tour started in Giarre. Ben and Valeria gave us an introduction to the history of wine production in the Etna zone before we hopped on the Circumetnea train (that’s a very jet lagged Ben in the black shirt and Valeria in the #winelover t-shirt). Our tour would include visits to I Vigneri, Feudo Vagliasindi and Planeta, giving us a glimpse of the history, tradition and contemporary trends on Etna.The train circled Mt. Etna and we took in the changing landscape, vegetation and vineyards.

Our first stop was at I Vigneri’s Vigna Bosco vineyard. Salvo Foti and I Vigneri are a point of reference for Etna wines, organic viticulture and traditional farming (for more about Salvo Foti and I Vigneri click here). Maurizio Pagano, manager of the vineyard workers, greeted us when we stepped off the train. Maurizio’s passion for viticulture and love and respect for each alberello vine was evident. He said “A vineyard that is 130 years old is like a 90 year old person. You must respect it like you respect your elders, not forcing it to be something that it is not but appreciating it for what it is.” The second vineyard we visited was the Vigna Centenaria. We stood on a turretta (little tower) looking down on the expansive 240 year old vineyard. Maurizio and Valeria pointed out the main grape varieties planted here, Nerello Mascalese and Alicante. Each alberello was beautifully crooked and distinct. Traditional alberello vines have graced Etna since ancient times. I am deeply in awe of their uniqueness and grace. Maurizio half jokingly asked if we’d like to grab a hoe and start working amongst the vines. Using his 60-year-old Sicilian dialect, my dad quickly told him he’d hoed enough in his life already. Apparently there were no volunteers. It was lunch time and time to taste. A feast of bruschetta, local cheese, fusilli pasta with le sparacogne (wild asparagus), sausages and more awaited us. Angelo di Grazia, a young enologist, who works with I Vigneri presented five wines to us. Vigna di Milo 2012 made from Carricante grapes was fresh and spoke of the sea and orange blossoms.The light-ruby colored rosé, Alnus Etna Rosato 2012 smelled and tasted like strawberries and raspberries. Vinudilice Rosato 2013 was salmon pink in color – a vibrant blend of Alicante, Minella, Nerello Cappuccio and Grecanico. Wild raspberries jumped out of my glass. I’m a huge fan of rosé wine and Alnus and Vinudilice were intriguing. Both were lovely with the appetizers and pasta.The red cherry taste and lively acidity of VINUPETRA were fabulous partners for the grilled sausage. The wines were vivacious, a true expression of the ancient vines, volcanic soil and I Vigneri. We ate, laughed and drank nourishing ourselves. With mom to my right and dad across from me the day could not have been more perfect. I wanted to freeze this moment in time. Sadly it was time to drive to the next vineyard. At that point Maurizio could have easily put me to work in the vineyard but instead he handed me a bottle of wine as a gift and asked my dad when he was going to teach me to speak Sicilian. Another thing to add to my bucket list.

to be continued…Sicily Part 3 – On Etna with The Etna Wine Lab

September 17, 2014
Sicily Part 1 – 5 Cherished Memories
This is part 1 of a 3 part post of my favorite memories from a recent trip to Sicily. Anyone who has met me knows that I am a bit obsessed with Sicily. My Sicily obsession has grown since the death of my Sicilian grandmother Maria in 2003. I am thankful to her for sharing her memories of Sicily. I admire her sarcasm, stubbornness and strength. She was a testarda (stubborn person) and for that reason I proudly hold my Italian passport. She was my last grandparent to immigrate to Boston allowing her to retain her Italian citizenship.Since 2003, I’ve visited Sicily countless times. Initially I searched for my roots to understand more about myself, my family and my attraction to the island. Every trip brought a new adventure from midnight fishing off the Aeolian Islands to walking the vineyards of Pantelleria. I fell in love with the energy, the smell, the tastes, I fell in love with the food, the wine and the people. When I received a call from the most difficult clients asking me to plan a trip of a lifetime to Sicily for them, I knew I was up for the challenge. The group was my mom, dad and three cousins. It may seem obvious that all clients want their vacation to be a trip of a lifetime. Understanding what a client envisions is the first step. My clients (family) wanted to stay in a villa near Siracusa with a pool, garden and outdoor kitchen and direct access to the sea. They wanted to relax, cook and most of all spend time together creating unforgettable memories.

My 5 most cherished memories from this very special trip of a lifetime are…
1. Stealing an hour with mom on Mother’s Day for a plate Sicilian cheese, semi-sundried tomatoes, eggplant parmesan and wine at Gusto dei Sapori Smarriti in Ortigia.
2. An indulgent breakfast at Caffé Sicilia in the city of Noto which is a UNESCO Heritage site. Cannoli, brioche, granita and cappuccino were exactly the sugar and caffeine jolt required to kick off a day of sightseeing.
3. Leading my family on a tour of the Ortigia food market to buy fish, vegetables and bread for an evening BBQ.
4. Spending a morning at I Vigneri vineyards on Etna with the Etna Wine Lab.
5. A farewell swim at the ramp of our Think Sicily villa rental. Despite living in Italy for more than 7 years, I still have New England blood which means I’ll jump in the sea in May despite chilly temps! That’s Mom and me.
to be continued…Sicily Part 2 – On Etna with The Etna Wine Lab & I Vigneri
August 12, 2014
Sicilian Sweets for the Festival for the Dead

Last night I dreamt of my grandparents who passed away many years ago. We were gathered around the kitchen table, laughing, talking and eating as usual. As tomorrow is All Souls’ Day, my superstitious self said “how appropriate you had a visit from the dead” so here’s to my grandparents.Thanks for the visit.

Celebrating the dead may sound morbid. I remember it as a day when we would visit the cemetery. Although it is a Catholic celebration, this festival has ancient, pagan roots. It is a day where offerings are made to the dead to honor them and the sweetness of life is celebrated.

It is also a day of beginnings. Farmers plant seeds today in hopes that the dead will bless the seeds with new life. It is a day when I recall the sweetest of Sicilian sweets La Frutta di Martorana (marzipan fruits).

Painted in vibrant colors, these marzipan fruits are said to have been created by nuns of the Martorana convent in Palermo for the archbishop’s visit on the Day of the Dead. He was awestruck by the fruit hanging from trees in the cloister. These sugary treats are now made all the year round but are given to children in memory of All Souls’ Day.

My favorite places to eat la frutta di martorana in Sicily are Cappello in Palermo and at Perlata in San Vito Lo Capo.

November 1, 2013
Caponata, Cooked Eggplant Salad
It is eggplant season. Market stands are piled high with the tear-shaped violet-purple-black vegetable. Caponata or capunata as my Sicilian grandparents would say is a cooked eggplant salad made with fried eggplant, celery and capers seasoned with vinegar and sugar. While variations of ingredients exist with some recipes adding raisins, potatoes and pine nuts and others including peppers, olives and carrots, I cherish my grandmother’s version.

Ingredients
- 2-3 pounds eggplant
- 1 bunch celery
- 1-2 sliced onions
- capers to taste
- green olives to taste
- homemade tomato paste to taste
- salt
- Olive oil or vegetable oil for frying
- sugar
- 1-2 cups good quality red wine vinegar
- black pepper
Wash and dice eggplant. Sprinkle with salt and leave in a colander to drain for at least one hour. Squeeze to get rid of excess liquid. Deep fry in oil until golden brown. Drain on kitchen paper. Clean and cut celery. Fry celery until golden. Saute onion in the same oil until translucent. Dilute tomato paste with warm water and add to the sauteed onion. Season with salt. Continue to cook for 10-20 minutes over medium heat. Add sugar, vinegar, capers, olives, eggplant and celery. Sprinkle with black pepper and simmer until done, approximately 15 minutes. Serve cold.

Note: This dish tastes best the following day if you can wait!
July 12, 2013
The People & Food of San Vito Lo Capo – Laboratorio Dolci Peralta

“It all started with la graffa, a Sicilian fluffy donut jam-packed with sweet ricotta and dusted with sugar. When I was 11 years old, my parents sent me to apprentice with a barber. I spent my weekly earnings on movie tickets and graffe. With my love of sweets and empty pockets, it was apparent that I was meant to be a baker not a barber”, said Vito, the owner of Laboratorio Dolci Peralta.

Peralta has been open for more than 32 years. It churns out traditional Sicilian desserts like biscotti di mandorle (cookies made from a base of almond paste), cassate and cannoli. I spent a morning in the bakery with Vito and his daughter Lorena, talking, photographing and eating.

The marble countertop was a field of moon, star and ball shaped morsels made from pasta di mandorla (almond paste). Vito makes traditional flavors of lemon and pistachio and new combinations like tiny globes with a fresh cherry center. Lucky for me, it was cherry season.

Next stop, cannoli! The dough is rolled out, wrapped around wooden tubes and piled on a tray before frying.

Golden shells emerge from a bubbly pool.

Sheep’s milk ricotta, candied orange peel and confectioners sugar filling is mixed and set aside. Unlike most pastry shops outside of Sicily, here shells are filled on order. This combined with the skill of the baker guarantees a delicate crisp pastry.And the finishing heavenly touches…crushed pistachios and syrupy citrus strands are placed on the ricotta.Onto the king of Sicilian desserts, cassata siciliana, made with layers of liquor-soaked sponge cake and a mixture of sweetened sheep’s milk ricotta and dark chocolate bits. Tin pans are lined with the sponge. The luscious cheese combo is smoothed on top and the cassata is flipped over.

Vito prides himself on making “proper cassata” which equals an elaborately decorated work of art. After the flip, it’s encased in a strip of pale green marzipan, glazed with white icing and adorned with crystallized oranges, pears and cherries. The glistening fruit wedges appear like flower petals.And last but certainly not least is frutta martorana. Painted in vibrant colors, these marzipan fruits are said to have been created by nuns of the Martorana convent in Palermo for the archbishop’s visit on the Day of the Dead, November 1. He was awestruck by the fruit hanging from trees in the cloister. These sugary treats are now made all the year round but are given to children in memory of the dead on All Souls’ night.

You’ll find Vito and Lorena hard at work, 7 days a week at:

Laboratorio Dolci Peralta

Via Santuario, 28

San Vito Lo Capo (TP)

Tel: +39 330 269917

Peralta plans to transfer to Via Immacolata, 17 in 2013.

August 8, 2012

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