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Gina – Page 2 – GT Food & Travel
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Author: Gina

  • Colatura di alici – anchovy sauce

    Colatura di alici – anchovy sauce

    August is upon us. It beckons us to the sea, away from steamy city dwellings. Tourists and locals depart for the famous beaches of the Amalfi Coast, Sicily and Sardegna just to name a few. Francesco and I head to off the beaten path seaside destinations known equally for their beaches and culinary specialities. The tiny fishing village of Cetara is on our list. cetaraseaLocated on the Amalfi Coast, it is rarely visited by tourists who speedily drive by to other picturesque and overcrowded towns. Although the beach front is minuscule, the water is crystal clear and Cetara is known for its exceptional seafood and colatura di alici (fermented anchovies likened to Roman garum). The essence of anchovy is the taste that I’m after.

    anchoviescetara

    Simply put the fishy sauce is made by aging anchovies in salt. Caught between April and August, the fresh fish are immediately layered with salt and placed in wood barrels. The barrels are topped with a weighted cover. As the weight gently presses the anchovies an amber liquid is produced. It is naturally preserved by the exposure to sunlight. Once the fish is aged, the liquid is poured back into the barrels to intensify the flavor before it drips out from an opening at the bottom of the barrel. The entire process takes 4-5 months.

    Screen Shot 2016-07-29 at 7.37.02 PMThe most popular colatura centric dish is spaghetti mixed with the sauce, olive oil and crushed garlic cloves. We add a few salted anchovies and parsley to the mix. I also drip it over boiled potatoes.

    Where to order colatura di alici:

    Acqua Pazza
    Gustiamo
    Simon Johnson 
    Volpetti

    Closing image © Simon Johnson for www.simonjohnson.com – all other photography: Gina Tringali

     

     

  • Pizza stuffed with escarole

    Pizza stuffed with escarole

    PizzaScarolaI wake up often with food memories dancing in my head. Visions of pizza dough stuffed with sausages and broccoli, peppers and onions, and escarole braised with black olives, anchovies and smoky olives. Mom filled pizza dough with ingredients that she had in the house. Nothing went to waste. I fought for the corner pieces, in love with the yeasty pillowy golden crust.

    I crawl out of bed and put on the coffee as a taste of childhood memories flood my kitchen in Rome. I savor the umami flavor of anchovies preserved in salt, smashed and stirred into a paste. They disappear into the heavy laden silver pan. The bottom is slightly brown, aged by daily use.

    I pour my coffee all the while thinking of anchovies. They may swim in my Sicilian blood. My paternal grandfather, Sebastiano grew up in Augusta, Sicily and was a fisherman by trade. Silent and stoic, he spent the majority of his life at sea. The simplest dishes of fish and greens were prepared by my grandmother Maria. She too spent her childhood in Augusta. She would have lived her life there given the choice. That’s a story for a different day.

    My mouth starts to water just thinking of pizza stuffed with sweet escarole and buttery pine nuts, and the sea. Here is my version of “pizza con la scarola” aka pizza filled with escarole, anchovies, pine nuts, capers and olives.

    Ingredients for the dough

    • 5 cups of flour
    • 1 cube of yeast
    • 1 1/4 cup of water
    • 3 – 5 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil (EVOO)
    • 1 tablespoon salt
    • grated pecorino cheese to taste
    • 2/3 cup milk

    Ingredients of the filling

    • 2 large heads of escarole
    • gaeta olives (to taste – approximately 3/4 cup)
    • capers (to taste – approximately 1/2 cup)
    • anchovy fillets preserved in olive oil or salt (to taste – 3 or 4 fillets)
    • 2 garlic cloves minced
    • EVOO
    • pine nuts (to taste – approximately 1/4 cup)
    • salt and pepper

    the dough

    Pile the flour in a mound on a marble or wooden surface. Make a well in the center of the mound. Dissolve the brewer’s yeast in tepid water as instructed on the yeast packet. Pour the yeast mixture, EVOO, water, milk and salt into the well. Knead until smooth and elastic adding pecorino cheese to taste to the mixture. Place in a floured bowl. Cover with a cloth and let rise in a warm place until doubled, about 2 hours.PizzaDoughWhile the dough is rising make the filling.

    the filling

    Clean the escarole. Cook the greens in a bit of salted water for about 20 minutes. Once cooked set the escarole aside to drain.

    Heat the olive oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the minced garlic and anchovy fillets. Stir and mash the anchovies until they melt away. Add the olives and the capers. Stir well. Add the pine nuts and the escarole. Salt and pepper to taste. I like to cut the escarole into bite size pieces but it’s not necessary. Lower the flame and mix well.ScarolaPizzaStuffingLet the filling cool while you roll out the dough. PizzaScarolaFillingGrease the pan with olive oil. I use a medium size square pizza pan. Divide the dough in two sections. Use a bit more dough for the base of the pizza letting it flow over the sides of the pizza pan. Roll out the bottom half of the dough in the shape of the pan. Place in well oiled pan, add filling; covering the dough evenly. Top with the remaining dough. Seal the edges by pinching the dough together with your fingers or press together with fork tines. In a pinch use pre-made dough.PizzaCrustCover and set aside in a warm place for an hour. Place in preheated oven at 400° for 40 minutes or until the crust is golden brown. It’s mouthwatering served warm or cold.PizzaScarolaSlice

     

  • For My Love of Artichokes

    For My Love of Artichokes

    When carciofi romaneschi or mammola (similar to a globe artichoke) are in season, I want to eat them every day. The crop of violet-green beauties fill market stands in Rome from February to May. My family stuffed their conical-shaped cousin with breadcrumbs, olive oil, garlic and parsley. We slid our teeth from the bottom to the top of each leaf savoring a bit of flesh messily extracted amongst the oily breading. As delicious as each leaf was it was the delicate heart that I saved for the last bite.
    RomanArtichokesAlthough, I live in Rome I spend oodles of time in Naples and Sicily where artichokes come in different shapes, sizes and preparations. In Naples, we eat them sliced thinly, battered and fried. In Siracusa, Sicily, we opt for a golden bread stuffed version.Siracusa_GazzaLadra_chokesIn my kitchen, I slice, sauté and mix them into a torta rustica with other vegetables and cheese. I throw them into pasta dishes and frittata. When fava beans, small sweet peas and artichokes grace food markets together, vignarola fills our plates. This Roman springtime vegetable trio sometimes include tender lettuce hearts and guanciale. When in Rome, keep an eye out for carciofi alla romana and carciofi alla giudia on menus. In prepping carciofi alla romana, the tough outer leaves are artfully cut away leaving a rose-like light green and lavender flower. The artichokes are stuffed with chopped garlic and mentuccia (pennyroyal) and cooked gently, stalks upward, in a bit of water and olive oil until they are fragrant and tender. romanartichokesCarciofi alla giudia is a speciality of the Jewish community. The leaves are trimmed and spread out like a flower before being deep-fried. The result: silky interior enveloped by crisp leaves. Devour every bit. Artichoke Fried

    If you’re in Rome and hankering for artichokes like me, here are a few of my favorite places for carciofi alla romana:

    And for carciofi alla giudia:

  • Taste of Sicily in Boston

    Taste of Sicily in Boston

    Nearly one year ago, I co-founded Casa Mia Italy Food & Wine with two culinary professionals. We set out to share our love of Italian food, wine and cooking with travelers in a joyful and convivial way. Casa Mia provides local culinary experiences, through delicious food walks and wine tastings, cooking classes and exclusive, food & wine excursions in and around Rome, Naples & Amalfi, Florence and Sicily.WineToast

    In celebration of Casa Mia’s first birthday, I’ll be in Boston for Taste of Sicily, an 8-course Sicilian meal with Sicilian wines. We’ve teamed up with Sicilian chef Nino of Sicilicity to take over The Fireplace Restaurant for the event. I’ll be at the events to share our Sicilian travel adventures and love of Sicilian food and wine with you. I hope to see you there!

    If you have any questions don’t hesitate contacting me directly at gina@italyfoodandwinetours.com or at +17815100358.

    Event details:

    When: Wednesday, April 13 and Thursday, April 14 at 7:00 pm

    Where: The Fireplace Restaurant, 1634 Beacon Street, Brookline, MA 02466

    Cost: $60 per person for an 8-course tasting menu (excluding beverages)

    To reserve please call: +1 617.975.1900

    The Tasting Menu:

     

    Taste-of-Sicily-V4

     

     

  • Hazelnut & Dried Cherry Biscotti

    Hazelnut & Dried Cherry Biscotti

    With every season and holiday baking rituals arrive. I never thought much about them as a child. With each year that passes by, I cherish these rituals more and more. Easter is quickly approaching. Mom and I make bunny, egg, and lamb shaped chocolates, bunny shaped bread and various versions of ricotta pie and biscotti. The baking marathon starts on Good Friday and ends at the Easter table littered with a plethora of savory and sweet dishes.DSC_0133

    In anticipation of the Easter bake-off, my sweet tooth and fidgety hands are warming up in the kitchen making biscotti. Biscotti means twice cooked as these tasty cookies are cooked in a strips, sliced and then cooked a second time. This easy to make biscotti recipe can be easily adapted to include your favorite nuts, dried fruit and chocolate.

    Ingredients

    • 1 cup sugar
    • 1 stick of butter
    • 3 eggs
    • 3 cups flour
    • 3 tsp baking powder
    • 1/2 tsp vanilla
    • toasted hazelnuts
    • dried cherries

    DSC_0120Combine sugar and butter.  Add well-beaten eggs, flour, baking powder and vanilla.  Mix together. Add as many hazelnuts and dried cherries as you like. I added approximately 1 cup of each. The dough can be quite sticky. If it’s too sticky to work with add a bit of flour to the mixture. DSC_0126

    Form 3 strips approximately 4 inches wide and 10 inches long. Bake at 400 degrees for about 15 minutes.  Remove from oven and slice.  DSC_0130Place under broiler to brown both sides (approximately 5 minutes per side).DSC_0132Remove and voilà! Your home will be full of aromas of roasting hazelnuts and you’ve got home-made biscotti. They are delicious served straight out of the oven or for breakfast dunked in coffee or as an afternoon snack. 

  • Wine Tasting Basics

    Wine Tasting Basics

    Have you ever attended a professional wine tasting? Not all tastings are the same but often the wine color is noted, the wine swirled, noses sniff into the glass and tasters proclaim “strawberries, raspberries, roses ” all before they taste the wine. Puzzled onlookers may wonder what’s in that glass?

    I can’t help but think of my 80-year-old cousin Rocco. He drinks sweet red jug wine. He’s one of the most happy-go-lucky people I know. He sat across from me at a wine tasting in Sicily bewildered and confused, as I observed the color of the wine and proceeded to swirl, sniff, taste and spit (not ingested) my wine. Neither the color of the wine nor the nose entered into his wine appreciation equation.Planetawineglasses

    I don’t use wine vocabulary like nose, tannin and acidity to confound or confuse readers although my editor at theAmerican may not believe me. Wine knowledge and terminology do not equal wine pleasure. There are no rights or wrongs in wine appreciation. It’s subjective.

    Enough said. This month I am happy to share 3 steps to wine tasting on theAmerican. Now grab a glass of your favorite sparkling, red or white wine, bring a clear nose and open mind. Enjoy!

  • Bean-Potato Stew from Ma’s Kitchen

    Bean-Potato Stew from Ma’s Kitchen

    It’s lovely, how I still dream of her. I’m happy to meet Ma in my dreams and celery cut in uniform miniscule squares on a well-worn wooden board and any kitchen knife. Her hands were always manicured but she never wore nail polish. Her nail length was uniform too. Like the cutting board, her hands are worn from a lifetime of cooking, caring and chopping. Her hands tell many stories with each fine line. Ma wears the house coat I like best. It’s white with blue and yellow daisies. The buttons are a lucid shiny celeste. Piles of celery, a rainbow of forest and pastel green and white, lay waiting. The leaves are peppery and flat. She insisted in uniformity in the kitchen that is. Crunch, the knife moves through each stalk, mechanical movements which are uniform too, dice and move to the side.MA

    In December, Mom and I walked into Roberto’s, our neighborhood fruit and vegetable shop, where I happened over to a mound of pink pods speckled with white. Art by nature; they were the last borlotti beans of the season. Mom held open a brown paper bag and I scooped handfuls of pods into it. We grabbed a soil dusted bunch of celery with plenty of leaves. We never stop for an instant to question why Ma cooked with certain ingredients, shopped here or there and bought celery with lots of peppery leaves. It just was.celery

    Into the kitchen we go. I’m less patient and certainly not uniform like Ma when it comes to dicing, mincing and slicing. I like chunky bits of celery. Split, crunch, crack, cut, I’m in her kitchen chopping on her cutting board. There she is. Shuck the beans, peel and dice the potatoes, put them in a dutch oven pan with EVOO and plenty of oregano. Cover with water and simmer until cooked. Serve with crusty bread.beanspotatoes

    Measurements are hard with Ma’s recipes. If the beans are in the shell, use 3 to 4 pounds. If shelled use a pound. Peel and dice 4 medium size potatoes, add as much diced celery as you like, plenty of celery leaves and oregano and extra virgin olive oil.


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