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coda alla vaccinara – GT Food & Travel
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Tag: coda alla vaccinara

  • Cesare al Casaletto

    Cesare al Casaletto

    If you consider yourself to be an adventurous tourist (and if you enjoy really really good Roman Italian food), Cesare al Casaletto is a necessary addition to your Rome itinerary. Located deep in the Monteverde neighborhood, this classic trattoria is about as local as it gets, packed daily and nightly with Romans and passionate foodies. It’s a bit of a trek from the city center, but well worth the journey (which is half the fun anyway).FriedAnchiovies_CesareThough most items on Cesare’s menu are fantastic, there are a few standout options that will give you a sense of the exquisite simplicity of la cucina Romana. I recommend coming to Cesare with only the emptiest of stomachs! Antipasto is a must here, and few places offer up the excellent quality fritti misti that Cesare does. Truthfully, anything off the fried menu will blow your mind, but my favorites to date were the mixed seafood and polpette di melanzane (eggplant croquettes).Cesare AppetizersThe primi menu consists of a choice of fresh pastas tossed in your choice of sauce, so you can mix and match to your preferences. They offer up excellent versions of all the classic Roman pastas, including carbonara, cacio e pepe, amatriciana, and gricia. If you’ve had enough traditional pasta order tonnarelli pasta with baccala, pecorino cheese and mint.

    gnocchi_CesarepecorinobaccalacesareDespite the fact that you’ve probably had to unbutton your jeans by this point, you absolutely CANNOT miss out on the secondi. The main dishes are some of the best items that Cesare has to offer, and include coda alla vaccinara (oxtail), abbacchio a scottadito (lamb chops), and the infamous trippa alla romana (tripe in a delicious tomato and mint sauce).

    coda_cesareCesareScottaditoAnd no meal is complete without a little sweetness. Try the creme caramel, crostata and home-made peanut brittle.CesareDessertsThere’s still one minor detail missing from your Roman lunch or dinner date: the wine. And if there’s one thing the Italians can teach you, it is to NEVER neglect the wine! Cesare has taken this principle to heart, offering a stellar list of natural and organic wines hand-picked by owner Leonardo Vignoli and offered at very affordable prices.

    A casual, friendly atmosphere and outstanding food and wine make Cesare al Casaletto a mecca for anyone in pursuit of the perfect Roman meal, and the epitome of “do as the Romans do!”

    How to get there… Just hop on the 8 tram towards Casaletto at Piazza Venezia. Enjoy the 25 minute ride through Trastevere (one of the city’s oldest residential boroughs) and Monteverde Nuovo. Get off at the last stop and just a few steps away on Via del Casaletto lies Cesare, with a beautifully trellised outdoor patio and cozy, intimate interior space.

    Address: Via del Casaletto 45; be sure to call +39 06 536015 for reservations.

    Closed on Wednesdays and February 16 until March 16. 

  • Agustarello in Testaccio

    Agustarello in Testaccio

    Just a few blocks away from the Nuovo Mercato di Testaccio lies Agustarello, a family-run trattoria boasting excellent traditional Roman dishes that taste just like mamma’s cooking, so to speak.

    Named for its founder, Agustarello, the trattoria is now run by his son, Alessandro, and Alessandro’s wife Antonella. Over the years, they’ve built a reputation for delicious dishes and friendly, attentive service by keeping the family in the kitchen and on the floor. Alessandro and Antonella both cook and take care of their guests, making a meal at Agustarello akin to being invited into a Roman home for dinner.

    Coda alla vaccinara

    Here I’ve compiled a menu of Agustarello’s must-try specialties. Stick to this menu and you’ll walk away having experienced the authentic Roman philosophy on life and food away from the tourist circuit. (Important note: I recommend having an overflowing basket of their fresh bread on hand to wipe up every last drop of these fabulous dishes.) Puntarelle saladFor primi, I recommend tonarelli alla gricia – a traditional Roman pasta dish, gricia consists of olive oil, Pecorino Romano cheese, and guanciale (cured pork jowl). It’s the epitome of Roman comfort food. For your secondi, try coda alla vaccianara (oxtail prepared in the butcher’s style) with an insalata di puntarelle (chicory salad). The oxtail is stewed to tender perfection and served up drenched in a rich cocoa infused sauce, while crunchy curls of young chicory are dressed in a mixture of olive oil, garlic, and anchovy paste.

    Cherry Crostata

    Wrap up your meal with an espresso and a slice of one of Antonella’s homemade desserts! Pictured above is her crostata di visciole (cherry tart).

    They say the best way to fully appreciate Italian culture (and food) is to sit down to dinner with a Roman and his family in their home. Dining at Agustarello is a lot like that. So if you find yourself exploring the Testaccio neighborhood, make sure to stop in at Agustarello for a meal of classic Roman cuisine!

    Agustarello
    Via Giovanni Branca, 100
    +3906574 6585
     Open: Mon-Sat 12:30-15:00 & 19:30-24:00
  • Top 5 Coda alla Vaccinara (Oxtail Stew)

    Top 5 Coda alla Vaccinara (Oxtail Stew)

    I giggle when I think of the first time I ate coda alla vaccinara (oxtail stew) more than 6 years ago. I was at a trattoria in Trastevere with a dear friend/chef. After appetizers, pasta, a main course and dessert the conversation went like this…”I could eat something else, you? You’ve never had oxtail?! you call yourself a food person and you’ve never tasted coda.” So our second dessert was coda alla vaccinara and there began my obsession. I’ve been chasing the best tail in Rome ever since.

    CodaVaccinara

    Coda alla vaccinara is a Roman specialty. Recipes vary. The tail is cut into pieces and slowly boiled with carrot, leek, celery, bay leaves and thyme. Prosciutto or lardo is browned with onion and added to the stew. Next steps? Add white or red wine and let it evaporate. Add tomato puree, salt and pepper. Some recipes call for pine nuts, raisins, dark chocolate, cinnamon and nutmeg.

    Here are my top 5  places to dig into coda.

    Agustarello is my absolute favorite informal place to indulge in coda. Wafts of cocoa fill the air as the plate floats from the kitchen to the table. Tender oxtail with pine nuts, chocolate and spices wins my heart and stomach every time.

    codaagustarello

    Cesare al Casaletto is my go to trattoria not only for beautifully braised oxtail but also for classic Roman pasta dishes. The off-the-beaten track gem serves a refined coda alla vaccinara, delicate with lovely stewed tomato flavors. 

    CodaCesare2

    Checchino dal 1887 is my choice for a special occasion. The somewhat formal Roman institution serves top notch offal and oxtail with a subtle hint of chocolate. The wine list is also a plus.

    Trapizzino is the place for trapizzini (triangular pockets of pizza bianca) filled with coda alla vaccinara. Pop in for a quick bite. The outstanding sauce and crusty pizza make a delectable meal on the go. Get your coda-trapizzino fix at the Testaccio shop or head to the Ponte Milvio location at Piazzale Ponte Milvio 13.

    Hostaria da Settimio is my neighborhood joint. The no frills hostaria serves coda stewed in a dense tomato sauce. Honest prices, a warm atmosphere and good food make for a winning recipe.

    CodaSettimio1

  • Friday Night at L’Osteria di Monteverde

    Friday Night at L’Osteria di Monteverde

    Last Friday, I had dinner at L’Osteria di Monteverde.  I’ve been a bit anti-Osteria di Monteverde since it took over the space of a popular locale and the menu was changed to typical Roman fare.  I visited the Osteria when it first opened its doors in September and wasn’t impressed but after much hype, I decided it was time to give it another go.

    Friday night, I was thrilled to see that chef, Roberto Campitelli had added many fish dishes to his repertoire.  Roberto is the chef and Fabio Tenderini runs the front of the house. The service is warm and the interior is simple.

    By 9:30 there wasn’t a seat left in the dining room. A steamy basket of irresistible artisan bread and grissini arrived quickly. Antipasti of zucchini flowers stuffed with ricotta, wrapped in prosciutto, served over saffron sauce and raw seabream in sesame oil were well presented. The nutty oil was a great compliment to the thinly sliced fish, mixed salad and yogurt sauce.

    Primi (first courses) included tagliolini pasta with pesce azzuro (typically mackerel, sardines and anchovies), spring onion, lemon and balsamic vinegar and pacchero pasta with arugula and fresh tuna. The tagliolini was the clear winner in this category. The homemade pasta tossed with meaty white morsels of fish was delicately balanced with lively citrus, onion and rich balsamic accents.

    Secondi (second courses) included seared tuna lightly coated in breadcrumbs with eggplant caviar and coda alla vaccinara (Roman stew made of oxtail, tomatoes and other vegetables). The coda was stewed to perfection, succulent and savory. I’ll be heading back for this dish; no doubt.

    I ended the meal with lemon cheesecake in caramel sauce dusted with powdered sugar and an espresso. The crust was moist and divine.

    Average cost per person including a bottle of water, ½ bottle of wine and coffee is 35 euro; reservations recommended.

     

    Osteria di Monteverde

    Via Pietro Cartoni 163/165

    Tel. 06 53273887

     


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